Battery cable question

Advice please.

Renewing the full length battery cable in my CE. Got a length of cable
and separate ends.

Is there a trick to soldering (and/or crimping) the ends to the cable
please? How do I prevent heat loss (and possible melting of the
sheathing) along the cable?

Thanks

Peter

I think you can get special double insulated wire, for the back end you can
use a screw fit terminal & for the front you will need to crimp & solder it
on,

Steve.

"Pedro" <peter.steckles (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote

Advice please.

Renewing the full length battery cable in my CE. Got a length of cable
and separate ends.

Is there a trick to soldering (and/or crimping) the ends to the cable
please? How do I prevent heat loss (and possible melting of the
sheathing) along the cable?

Thanks

Peter

Is there a trick to crimping the end piece? Is it a special crimping
tool - or would the vice do the trick?

Thanks

there is a special tool but the easiest thing would to be to use pliers then
solder it, put flux on the conductors then the terminal on, crimp using
pliers then solder it, you will probably need to do it with a blow torch, as
the wire is very thick, finish it off with some heat shrinkable sleeve to
make it look good,

Steve.

"Pedro" <peter.steckles (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote

Is there a trick to crimping the end piece? Is it a special crimping
tool - or would the vice do the trick?

Thanks

Thanks Steve

A gentleman and a scholar.

P

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 01:18:51 +0100, "Steve68s"
<steve68(remove)@btinternet.com> wrote:

there is a special tool but the easiest thing would to be to use pliers then
solder it, put flux on the conductors then the terminal on, crimp using
pliers then solder it, you will probably need to do it with a blow torch, as
the wire is very thick, finish it off with some heat shrinkable sleeve to
make it look good,

Steve.

Yep. It'll be practically impossible to solder wire that thick without
melting some of the insulation. What I do, is to cut away the melted
bit after soldering, then wrap insulating tape around the bare bit to
build the diameter back up level with the original insulation. Then
heat-shrink over the top.

It should end-up looking something like this...

http://www.stamp.plus.com/temp/BatteryPositive.JPG

Cheers,

Colin.

"Colin Stamp" <col.dustbin (AT) stamp (DOT) plus.com> wrote

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 01:18:51 +0100, "Steve68s"
steve68(remove)@btinternet.com> wrote:

there is a special tool but the easiest thing would to be to use pliers
then
solder it, put flux on the conductors then the terminal on, crimp using
pliers then solder it, you will probably need to do it with a blow torch,
as
the wire is very thick, finish it off with some heat shrinkable sleeve to
make it look good,

Steve.

Yep. It'll be practically impossible to solder wire that thick without
melting some of the insulation. What I do, is to cut away the melted
bit after soldering, then wrap insulating tape around the bare bit to
build the diameter back up level with the original insulation. Then
heat-shrink over the top.

It should end-up looking something like this...

http://www.stamp.plus.com/temp/BatteryPositive.JPG

Cheers,

Colin.

as we all know, Heat rises, place the terminal higher than the cable,
concentrate the heat in the direction of the terminal, the heat should
transfer to the cable, apply solder,
remember to monitor flame deflection, and also remember, solder will follow
the heat,,,,it will even flow vertically,
Fitzy

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 18:21:47 +0100, "Fitzy"
<peterfitzpatrick (AT) btopenworld (DOT) com> wrote:

"Colin Stamp" <col.dustbin (AT) stamp (DOT) plus.com> wrote in message
news:nv0752d9ia97q5kusgbd5f212rrsfgihu4 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
Yep. It'll be practically impossible to solder wire that thick without
melting some of the insulation. What I do, is to cut away the melted
bit after soldering, then wrap insulating tape around the bare bit to
build the diameter back up level with the original insulation. Then
heat-shrink over the top.

It should end-up looking something like this...

http://www.stamp.plus.com/temp/BatteryPositive.JPG

Cheers,

Colin.

as we all know, Heat rises, place the terminal higher than the cable,
concentrate the heat in the direction of the terminal, the heat should
transfer to the cable, apply solder,
remember to monitor flame deflection, and also remember, solder will follow
the heat,,,,it will even flow vertically,
Fitzy

All good things to do, but I still defy you to solder a battery cable
to anything without knackering any insulation within around 10-15mm of
the joint. There's just too much copper to conduct the heat straight
to the PVC. 2mm^2 is fine, 3mm^2 is starting to get slightly dodgy,
but I've never seen starter cable less than about 15mm^2. Having
molten solder within a few mm of solid PVC isn't going to happen on
wire that thick.

If you have access to a TIG machine, I suppose you might be able to
weld it before the PVC notices too much heat, but the easiest thing is
just to let it happen and make good afterwards with heat-shrink.

Cheers,

Colin.

Your totally right there Colin,
just trying to describe how I would do it, to reduce the damage,
Fitzy

"Colin Stamp" <col.dustbin (AT) stamp (DOT) plus.com> wrote

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 18:21:47 +0100, "Fitzy"
peterfitzpatrick (AT) btopenworld (DOT) com> wrote:


"Colin Stamp" <col.dustbin (AT) stamp (DOT) plus.com> wrote in message
news:nv0752d9ia97q5kusgbd5f212rrsfgihu4 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
Yep. It'll be practically impossible to solder wire that thick without
melting some of the insulation. What I do, is to cut away the melted
bit after soldering, then wrap insulating tape around the bare bit to
build the diameter back up level with the original insulation. Then
heat-shrink over the top.

It should end-up looking something like this...

http://www.stamp.plus.com/temp/BatteryPositive.JPG

Cheers,

Colin.

as we all know, Heat rises, place the terminal higher than the cable,
concentrate the heat in the direction of the terminal, the heat should
transfer to the cable, apply solder,
remember to monitor flame deflection, and also remember, solder will
follow
the heat,,,,it will even flow vertically,
Fitzy


All good things to do, but I still defy you to solder a battery cable
to anything without knackering any insulation within around 10-15mm of
the joint. There's just too much copper to conduct the heat straight
to the PVC. 2mm^2 is fine, 3mm^2 is starting to get slightly dodgy,
but I've never seen starter cable less than about 15mm^2. Having
molten solder within a few mm of solid PVC isn't going to happen on
wire that thick.

If you have access to a TIG machine, I suppose you might be able to
weld it before the PVC notices too much heat, but the easiest thing is
just to let it happen and make good afterwards with heat-shrink.

Cheers,

Colin.

Yup, with the heat the insulation will creep back but the rally stuff is
double insulated with the inner being PTFE, when done a little insulation
tape & cover the end with heat shrinkable rubber, also if its getting
renewed run it inside the car maybe?

Steve.

"Fitzy" <peterfitzpatrick (AT) btopenworld (DOT) com> wrote

Your totally right there Colin,
just trying to describe how I would do it, to reduce the damage,
Fitzy

"Colin Stamp" <col.dustbin (AT) stamp (DOT) plus.com> wrote in message
news:r2i75214bqqomouevlj34lv3kfqfa4esvg (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 18:21:47 +0100, "Fitzy"
peterfitzpatrick (AT) btopenworld (DOT) com> wrote:


"Colin Stamp" <col.dustbin (AT) stamp (DOT) plus.com> wrote in message
news:nv0752d9ia97q5kusgbd5f212rrsfgihu4 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
Yep. It'll be practically impossible to solder wire that thick without
melting some of the insulation. What I do, is to cut away the melted
bit after soldering, then wrap insulating tape around the bare bit to
build the diameter back up level with the original insulation. Then
heat-shrink over the top.

It should end-up looking something like this...

http://www.stamp.plus.com/temp/BatteryPositive.JPG

Cheers,

Colin.

as we all know, Heat rises, place the terminal higher than the cable,
concentrate the heat in the direction of the terminal, the heat should
transfer to the cable, apply solder,
remember to monitor flame deflection, and also remember, solder will
follow
the heat,,,,it will even flow vertically,
Fitzy


All good things to do, but I still defy you to solder a battery cable
to anything without knackering any insulation within around 10-15mm of
the joint. There's just too much copper to conduct the heat straight
to the PVC. 2mm^2 is fine, 3mm^2 is starting to get slightly dodgy,
but I've never seen starter cable less than about 15mm^2. Having
molten solder within a few mm of solid PVC isn't going to happen on
wire that thick.

If you have access to a TIG machine, I suppose you might be able to
weld it before the PVC notices too much heat, but the easiest thing is
just to let it happen and make good afterwards with heat-shrink.

Cheers,

Colin.