1. I don't use Mobil 1 for "savings"...I do it for my engine (and AT)!

If you want to be cheap, stick with Dino oil and $1.97 oil filters.

2. No, it's not too late, your engine is still almost new so start
using it yourself.

John D.




Len <len (AT) sonic (DOT) net> wrote

I'm thinking about changing oil/filter myself. What filter should I
use? Is Nissan OEM filter good?



rocky <jhodge71 (AT) bellsouth (DOT) net> wrote

Yes, it's very good.

Honda/Toyota/Nissan OEM filters are among the best.

John D.





racerx000 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com (james woods) wrote in message news:<8daf6c50.0307230646.5779e172 (AT) posting (DOT) google.com>...

Yep, the Nissan filter is IDENTICAL to the Purolator,
or the Super Tech brand that Wal-Mart Sells.

They are manufactured on the same assembly line, and even have the
same date stamps on them. The Super Tech uses a Fram Numbering system,
but these are NOT Fram filters.

The Toyota/Honda OEM filters are still manufactured in Japan, so the
insides are significantly different than the US made filters. I
believe it they have more filter area inside the filter.

Unless the manufacture supplies the filter for FREE, you are welcome
to use ANY brand that meets OEM specifications, and they CANNOT void
your warranty.

If you change it at recommended intervals listed in your owners manual
it really doesn't matter what brand you use.

Some brands will last longer than the recommended interval, but all
will eventually clog up with dirt. This is why they have a by pass
valve in them. When your filter fails, the oil is circulated
unfiltered through your engine.

I have seen this in practice. I saw a Toyota Celica with a 22R
engine that had the same filter for 40,000 miles. Customer changed the
oil every 3 to 5,000 miles, but not the filter. I had to take the oil
filter off with a screwdriver and a hammer, it was COMPLETELY clogged,
and full of sludge. Engine sure ran different after it was changed....
Bypass valve worked..

I believe in Synthetic oil, never seen it sludge up, because it can't.

If it can't decompose, it can't do engine damage like standard oil.

This is why most all companies have switched over to this oil for
factory fill, and recommend that you ONLY use synthetic oil in the
engine.

Simple test, buy a quart of your facorite regular oil and a quart of
any brand synthetic. Put both in the freezer, take them out and pour.
Regular oil doesn't pour well at low temperatures. Now take a small
sample of each and heat it on a stove. Regular oil will degrade and
smoke, synthetic will not.

You choose.. I don't have extra money for replacement engines due to
crappy oil.....

On 23 Jul 2003 10:45:24 -0700, jcdech (AT) hotmail (DOT) com (John D.) wrote:

For some more specific information on Nissan oil filters, see this webpage:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/515

John D.



racerx000 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com (james woods) wrote in message news:<8daf6c50.0307230646.5779e172 (AT) posting (DOT) google.com>...

I use Redline for Oil.

Best,

Phil Sharkey

Phil Sharkey <phsharkey (AT) netscape (DOT) net> wrote

on a mopar web site some person took apart some filters and compared
them. if you use your browser and find it as i recall you will never
buy a fram filter again. check it out very informative. sorry i do not
remember the exact URL.
good luck
jerome

http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html




"jerome beattie" <heritage911 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

I think it comes back to this point, and as other people have already
said: If you do REGULAR oil changes on your car, don't abuse it and
drive "normally," ANY filter (except REAL crap) will do the job. My
1973 Datsun 1200 has used "crap Frams," specifically the Fram PH8A --
due to my "ignorance" -- for the last 20 years or so. It's still
running. It will stay on Dino oil (First Penzoil, then Castrol) due to
its age, etc., and I'll probably continue using the Fram PH8A.

Were I able to do it over again, I'd have stayed with Nissan OEM
filters which are among the best...as are Toyota and Honda filters.
It's just that back then, we were trying to save money and OEM Datsun
parts were parts were too expensive for us on a regular basis, and
it's known dealer prices are often higher...so we looked for a decent
alternative. Even today, for example, a gallon of Nissan coolant is
about $14...a bit overpriced for me.

But my recently-acquired 1995 Nissan 200SX SE was changed over from
Dino oil to Mobil 1 synthetic AND a Mobil 1 oil filter shortly after I
got the car, partly because it's a good filter (although at $12 it's
$3 more than a Nissan OEM) but also to indicate there is Mobil 1
synthetic oil in the engine -- a reminder -- so someone doesn't
(hopefully) add Dino oil to it by mistake.

Some people will always buy the cheapest things, whatever they are.
It's up to the individual...it's his/her car. But while it's not
always true that the cheaper stuff is inferior, it's also not true
that you always "get what you pay for"...expensive does not always
guarantee quality.

John D.





"HEY MOE!" <stooges3 (AT) localnet (DOT) com> wrote

I can't remember if my old 79 toyota corolla took a fram ph8 or a ph16....
I know I used which ever one was larger as it fit the 1966 ford f-250 as
well.

But I will say this... I used castrol 20/50 regular oil for roughly 200,000
miles of my car's lifespan, out of a total of 360,000 miles. The car is
still operational, though at this point could use either a valve adjustment
or grind. It's not mine anymore so. I could have done better on my oil
changes though, 3000-4000 was my average chainge.

I'm willing to believe that switching to synth oil for my current nissan may
be better, but i'm set in my ways and i'm a cheep bastard. I'll probally
switch to a nissan filter if I can find them localy cheeply. It's been on
the non-synth castrol for 50,000 miles of it's life, and i'm just going to
stick to it. It works and has proven it self to me in the past.



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"John D." <jcdech (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote