All,

Maybe one of you has been here before and can offer wonderful advice.
My L reg Primera has had this starter problem since I bought it 3
years ago with 48K miles. It now has 85K miles and the problem is
getting worse.

When I turn the ignition key, the starter whizzes around without
engaging the flywheel.
It used to engage at the 1st, 2nd or (at worst) 3rd attempt.
Now it has degraded to needing sometimes 5 or 6 attempts before the
starter engages the flywheel.
I believe the problem is worse in cold weather.

I'm pretty sure it is a starter problem, rather than missing / broken
teeth on the flywheel as I can put it into 5th gear, push it forwards
a few yards and try again with no guarantee of success.

The Haynes manual suggests removing the exhaust manifold and front
pipe for best access to the starter. Is this really necessary ?

Any (sensible) suggestions ?

Thanks in advance.

Rob

Sorry, I can't remember where I saw it very recently, but someone else had this
problem with a Primera and the cause was gunge/muck clogging up the starter
clutch mechanism. My Haynes manual is very unclear on the subject with no
decent pictures or info.

"Rob" <Rob999 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

In message <4049ae77$0$1160$65c69314 (AT) mercury (DOT) nildram.net>, Steve B
<sbrads (AT) nildramDOTcoDOTuk (DOT) ?.invalid> writes
clean and dry, if it's a pre-engaged type, it sounds as if the contacts
to the starter are closing before the solenoid has time to pull the gear
to the starter ring, and needs adjustment.
--
Clive

I have a 1993/94 'L' reg Primera 1.6LX 5-door, manual that has been
exhibiting this problem for some time (2-3 years!), and I'd been arguing
with my father over the cause - my gut feeling was something in the
solenoid was sticking while he was of the opinion it was something
expensive and electrical.

Decided to Google for other similar problems and came across this thread.


As soon as we read Rob's description we went "Snap!", and Steve B's
comment about a potential soultion fitted with my gut feeling.

So, being of the farming persuasion we've just had the car over the pit.

Once stripped down it was reasonably certain that the copper piston in the
solenoid was sticking, gunged up with polluted grease and dirt, so I
cleaned it, greased it, and put it all back together.
So far, so good... and it certainly sounds and 'feels' more responsive and
not so sluggish.

The Haynes manual is a bit keen on taking bits off you don't need to, to
get to the Starter motor.

You don't need to drop the exhaust front pipe; in fact it doesn't get in
the way nearly as much as the right-side drive shaft.

So, heres what to do:

1. Disconnect the battery - make sure you've got the unlock code for the
radio BEFORE you start! See step 40 for how to unlock it.
2. From the left side of the engine bay, unclip the cable-carrier up
against the cabin bulkhead that is mounted on an arm attached to the
manifold mounting bracket.
2. From under the car remove the 3 bolts fastening the manifold support
bracket.
3. You'll have to jiggle it a bit to get it out, because that cable-clip
on the top arm will get caught behind pipes, but it WILL come out.
4. Remove the cable clip now, ready for reassembling, because the mounting
bracket won't go back in easily with it in place. To remove it, use a
smallish screwdriver to press and hold down the recessed plastic tab while
pushing the clip off the metal arm.
5. On the power cable from the battery where it attaches to the solenoid,
ease back the rubber hood that protects the connection... this can get in
the way so make sure you get it at least an inch back along the cable.
6. Using a 12mm socket undo the nut holding the battery cable in place,
and mind the spring-washer doesn't get lost.
7. Disconnect the control wire that comes from the ignition. Its white
with a black or blue stripe, and has a grey connector about 6 inches back
along the wire from the solenoid.
8. Using a 14mm socket undo the bolt on the lower flange of the starter
motor where it mates up against the clutch casing.
9. From the engine bay top left side, undo the long bolt that goes through
to the top of the starter motor. You'll find this just rear-ward of the
large earthing strap, and may need to loosen and rotate the strap to get
access to the starter motor fastening bolt. You won't need to pull the
bolt all the way out.
10. Lower the rear of the starter motor and move it slightly rear-ward and
it will come free and drop away easily.
11. On a bench undo the wire that ataches the solenoid to the starter
motor.
12. Use an 8mm socket to undo the two bolts that fasten the solenoid to
the start motor. REMEMBER which way the solenoid fits to the motor, maybe
by making matching marks on both units.
13. With the solenoid free inspect the piston and spring - does it feel
relunctant to move in and out freely?
14. Pull the piston out of the solenoid. The spring is simply pushed onto
the flange around the cylinder so give it a good pull and it'll come
away.
15. Remove the spring from the piston by pulling and slightly turning it
as it comes off.
16. Wash out the solenoid cylinder with Deisel or parafin or something
similar. Use a small toothbrush to scrub the inner walls of the cylinder,
then pack it with tissues and rotate to remove all the muck.
17. Wash the piston and if necessary give it a light polish with fine
emery cloth until it sparkles
18. Wash the spring.
19. Inspect the starter motor bendix gear (the thing with teeth that moves
back and forth on the main starter-motor shaft. It might show a bit of wear
on the front corners but as long as the tteth are healthy you're fine.
20. Thoroughly wash the thrust bearing area, and the solenoid piston entry
area to remove the muck thats out if sight. It helps to be able to squirt
the fluid in under pressure as well as poking about with cotton buds and
such.
21. If possible, thoroughly blow out the remaining muck and cleaning fluid
with a high pressure airline.
22. Apply a coating of high-melting-point grease to the solenoid cylinder
and piston, putting some 'spare' into the concave recess in the end of the
piston.
23. Fit the spring back on the piston.
24. Slide the piston back into the solenoid cylinder, press and turn until
the spring slips into place on the flange.
25. Try the pistion action - it should feel super smooth and slide easily
to the full extent of its movement.
26. Re-attach the solenoid to the starter motor.
27. Re-attach the wire from the starter motor to the solenoid.
28. Slip the starter motor back into place on the clutch housing.
29. Fit the lower bolt and hand tighten to hold the motor in place.
30. Fit the upper bolt and tighten.
31. Tighten the lower bolt.
32. Re-attach the power cable from the battery.
33. Re-fit the rubber hood over the nut.
33. Re-connect the ignition control cable connection.
34. Slide the inlet manifold support bracket into place. This might take a
bit of fiddling to get that cable-mounting arm back past the two power
steering pump pipes but it does go, eventually!
35. Re-fit the 3 bolts and tighten.
36. From the engine bay top left side, re-fit the plastic cable clip to
the mounting arm.
37. Re-fit the cable into the clip and snap closed.
38. Reconnect the battery.
39. Test!
40. Don't forget to unlock the radio. The code will be 4 digits. Using the
station buttons 1 through 4 enter the code. For example, if your code were
5390 you would press the "1" button 5 times, the "2" button 3 times, the
"3" button 9 times and the "4" button not at all. Then press the upper
manual-tune button to enter the code. All being well the radio will come
on.

I hope this helps you save on garage bills and unnecessary parts
replacement.

TJ
http://fun.tjworld.org/