my car used to start & idle at approx 2000 rpm.
Soon the car would start then suddenly idle low (almost turn off) and
then go back to 1500-2000 rpm.
Then some days later it would shut down after starting up - too low
rpm.
Today it started and immediately shut off - now it does not start. It
cranks and battery seems fine.

What year is it, how many kilometres, these things would help a bit.

By the way, most Maxima's idle at 600 RPM or so, maybe 800 RPM with the AC
on a hot day.

How long has your car been idling at 200 RPM?

rtt


"OldCarGuy" <RickTrivedi2 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote




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Its a 95 maxima @ 139,000K.
I don't use the ac at all.

The car used to idle properly and then totally shut down after a few
minutes.
Yesterday - it shut down as soon as the car started.
Its at the dealership right now - I have to sell my clothes today!!!!
ha ha.

Well, that ought to help the more knowledgeable people here to pin it down.

After reading all the notes here for quite a while, it could be a number of
things.

Theres a cam position sensor that could have gone bad, a Mass Air Flow
sensor that's really gummed up, the ECU itself, an idle control valave and I
am out of ideas, as I don't have a lot of knowledge in mechanics.

It is most likely not the colis or the injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter,
catalytic converter.

rtt



"OldCarGuy" <RickTrivedi2 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote




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Got my car back from the dealership - they change the temperature
sensor and also complained about the drive belt.
Amazing how the parts total is almost $100 but the labor is $300!!!
The check engine light still remains on!! What did they really fix?

"OldCarGuy" <RickTrivedi2 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote

I have to assume they replaced both accessory belts. Retail price for an
A/C belt is $51.48, serpentine belt $16.35, and temp sensor is $26.29. So
that adds up. It should take about an hour for them to install that stuff,
and *maybe* 30min to read the ECU codes and do general diagnosis. So at
$80/hr there is $180 of labor not accounted for. Did they do a road test,
or something else that would explain a couple of hours of futzing around
with it?

I suggest you put the exact info on the receipt so we can figure out what
was really done.

Dave

njmodi wrote:
I agree. To spend 2-1/2 hours diagnosing a bad ECTS seems odd.
Maybe realistic, since I don't know if an ECU code pointed the mechanic
right to it, or they were troubleshooting from less obvious symptoms.
In any case, the CEL should not be on.

Dave