help! 90 maxima will crank, kinda start, then die....fuel pump?

i just got a tune up (sans set of wires) car was running a bit rough, as if
it were missing. fuel injectors all tested fine. one day after tune up,it
would die immediately after starting, took a few times to get it going. i
put in a new set of wires. didn't help: it will crank and die, doesn't
start. i'm pretty sure i can hear the pump with key on and pressure on gas
pedal. the pump is 400 plus labor..is there any other possibilities???
thanks

oh...pre-tune up symptoms included rough idle and smell of gas inside. one
mechanic suggested bad injector, but mechanic who did tune up said
injectors tested fine.

...is there any other possibilities??? ..
- Typically hoses get stiff if pressure rises. Check. Pressure regulator may be faulty so actual pressure should be tested, 28/30psi.
- Gas smells only if pump pressure builds up, and gas is released to atmosphere for u to smell. Leaking, 16yrs old hoses. Correct, also the short stump between fuel rails
- Only severe fuel leak may affect startup: pool on the driveway. Real explosion hazard
- At startup ECU is programmed to inject on all six injectors per each revolution. Floodin will happen; maybe you smell it from exhaust pipe after long startup (=no problems here

- MAF Mass AirFlow sensor may be shorted causing no startup. Disconnect its connector (clic link below) to tets. Will now start in 'safe-mode' [=2200rpm ceiling] if it is the problem. see p.9. ('new' spare MAF's come typically dead, 60%.

- CamPos sensor failure in early 3gen Maximas will cause no startup. Distributor Grounding is quite possibly bad; see p.10

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well, i disconnected the maf but it didnt start. i replaced the eccr relay
(marked engine cont) that didnt work. it seems to be pumping out fuel good
enough to at least start, but i need to check the pressure. still have to
check the distributor grounding. thanks for you help

- Recheck and write down the chain of events startin before tuneup: any wire/connector jobs and/or replaced component(s) may be faulty
- If cap was changed, and now weather is humid, points to DOA = cracked cap. Check. p. 12. For some reason lots of VGE caps do come faulty
- Anyways, first open & clean/dry the now dirty plugs (I'd tst with new set) ...Use ONLY NGK plugs, whatever u do, never use Bosch - new Bosch plugs set is a known source of a dead and/or stuttering engine
- The CamPos sensor output(s) can be measured up to a point with dmm (p. 9

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here's what happened: after following as much of Wiikinki's advice (thanks
mucho, dude) as i could but with the maxipad still not starting, i called
a mechanic in next town that i knew from way back. he towed her and had
her for five days. after getting messages from him like: "it sounds like
the timing belt slipped, but i dont know...." and "this car is kicking my
butt" "the fuel pump is fine" and "I don't fDSk$ing know what is wrong" I
finally got "Your car is possessed". She apparently started (unexpectedly,
of course) during a compression test. so i picked her up and she's been
starting beautifully ever since. However, i sure do feel like it's only a
matter of time before it happens again. Any thoughts??? Anti-theft?
short?? the first mechanic did put bosch plat. plugs in at the tuneup,
but could that really be it? i sure would appreciate any advice!

...eek t-heres an Opel with Bosch plugs. And my son just drives it, seems he & the opel doesnt trust me.

When the problem is ON be prepared;
- to tst spark (have a spare plug ready)
- to tst injector click
- tst fuel hose stiffness (=pressure diag)
- tst unplug MAF
...and so on. Those tests will give indication if voltage, ECU & other electricals are 'conscious'

- Antitheft inhibits starter; not the actual engine startup.
- Possible short or cut in wiring, MAF, CamPos, ECU itself etc. = catch the symptoms above...

No other way to catch intermittent faults.


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try replacing the relay labeled ENG CONT (engine control) relay in the box
near the battery, the relay is green.

This is a common complaint of the J30 series Maxima owner, 95% of the time
the relay fixes it.



"boltgirl" <boltgrl (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

here's what happened: after following as much of Wiikinki's advice (thanks
mucho, dude) as i could but with the maxipad still not starting, i called
a mechanic in next town that i knew from way back. he towed her and had
her for five days. after getting messages from him like: "it sounds like
the timing belt slipped, but i dont know...." and "this car is kicking my
butt" "the fuel pump is fine" and "I don't fDSk$ing know what is wrong"
I
finally got "Your car is possessed". She apparently started (unexpectedly,
of course) during a compression test. so i picked her up and she's been
starting beautifully ever since. However, i sure do feel like it's only a
matter of time before it happens again. Any thoughts??? Anti-theft?
short?? the first mechanic did put bosch plat. plugs in at the tuneup,
but could that really be it? i sure would appreciate any advice!

NissTech wrote:

try replacing the relay labeled ENG CONT (engine control) relay in the box
near the battery, the relay is green.

This is a common complaint of the J30 series Maxima owner, 95% of the time
the relay fixes it.

I agree that little relay cost us dearly a few years ago in our 89 Max. One shop
removed the computer after installing the airflow sensor with nothing working
and said the only thing that would help was a $1800 new computer. We had it
towed away to a Nissan dealer who found all it needed this small relay. What ran
the bill up was them having to re-install the old computer. Yeah repalce that
small relay it just might save you a lot of money if thats it.

Ppl here seem to write, never read. How's that?

The relay is first in the troubleshoot chart, explained in given link WITH pics. Try readin the txt beside the illustration, pls.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...748507_479.jpg


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