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Re: alt or batt?

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  #11  
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Tenzo
 
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Default Re: alt or batt? - 08-27-2003 , 08:23 PM







"Frank" <francismarquis (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:
"Tenzo" <tenzosan (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

Driving home today my battery light came on.

Before turning off the engine I checked under the hood and there were no
strange sounds and all the belts were tight and turning.

Unfortunately the green indicator on the battery was dark.

So, how do I tell if it is the battery (5 yrs old), or the alternator
(10
yrs. old) ?
Is an SL2 1993


Depends a bit on your philosophy:

Myself, I'd change the battery, the alternator and since you have it
off, the serpentine belt. You do it once and its done for good.

Let us know what you do and the cost. For me, the works came just
under US $300 for top of the line components.

Frank
97 SL1
98,600Mi
$500 for battery and alt.




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  #12  
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Napalm Heart
 
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Default Re: alt or batt? - 08-28-2003 , 08:20 PM







"Tenzo" <tenzosan (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:
"Frank" <francismarquis (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:1d9ae1cf.0308270919.7adf85a4 (AT) posting (DOT) google.com...
"Tenzo" <tenzosan (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:<bignol$c5i$1 (AT) bob (DOT) news.rcn.net>...
Driving home today my battery light came on.

Before turning off the engine I checked under the hood and there
were no
strange sounds and all the belts were tight and turning.

Unfortunately the green indicator on the battery was dark.

So, how do I tell if it is the battery (5 yrs old), or the
alternator
(10
yrs. old) ?
Is an SL2 1993


Depends a bit on your philosophy:

Myself, I'd change the battery, the alternator and since you have
it
off, the serpentine belt. You do it once and its done for good.

Let us know what you do and the cost. For me, the works came just
under US $300 for top of the line components.

Frank
97 SL1
98,600Mi

$500 for battery and alt.


Is that just for parts?

Ken




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  #13  
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Philip Nasadowski
 
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Default Re: alt or batt? - 08-31-2003 , 12:09 AM



In article <tmunkvkd5moffmikgsb4kur3guh4nc6j6r (AT) 4ax (DOT) com>,
Bender <bender (AT) futureama (DOT) com> wrote:

Quote:
Old battery won't hold a charge, voltage is low but enough to start
engine.

Alternator produces a lot of current to charge it.

Rectifiers (diodes) in alternator fry and go bad.

Replace the alternator.

Replace the battery.
This gets me thinking. I knowwhen I disconnect the battery on my '93,
there's a little sparking and all going on. I know the replacement
baqtteries we've put in were always rated a bit higher than the OEM type.

Now, it seems to me there's a bit of vehicle off current draw. Maybe
what's killing everyone's alternator isn't a bad alternator, but a big
surge when recharging the battery that the alternator's a bit small for?
Not to mention the running load - is there a difference between the
failure rates of alternators in stick and automagic cars? Mine's stick
and only popped one in 200,000+ miles
--
To email me, chage 'usermale' to 'usermail'.


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  #14  
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Jim, N2VX
 
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Default Re: alt or batt? - 08-31-2003 , 09:35 PM



On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 01:09:38 -0400, Philip Nasadowski
<nasadowsk (AT) usermale (DOT) com> wrote:

Quote:
This gets me thinking. I knowwhen I disconnect the battery on my '93,
there's a little sparking and all going on. I know the replacement
baqtteries we've put in were always rated a bit higher than the OEM type.

Now, it seems to me there's a bit of vehicle off current draw. Maybe
what's killing everyone's alternator isn't a bad alternator, but a big
surge when recharging the battery that the alternator's a bit small for?
Not to mention the running load - is there a difference between the
failure rates of alternators in stick and automagic cars? Mine's stick
and only popped one in 200,000+ miles
The current draw is from things with always-on microcontrollers and
memory backup. Like the radio, engine control computer, car alarm,
etc.

Measure the current with a multimeter. Last time I tried it was very
low, don't remember the number now.

Jim


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  #15  
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BANDIT2941
 
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Default Re: alt or batt? - 09-01-2003 , 10:43 PM



Quote:
Not to mention the running load - is there a difference between the
failure rates of alternators in stick and automagic cars? Mine's stick
and only popped one in 200,000+ miles
Thats a good point. Mine's a stick and the only one I've broken in the 95k
miles I've owned the car was my own fault......much less than what people make
it out to be.


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  #16  
Old   
D V Brownell
 
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Default Re: alt or batt? - 09-02-2003 , 03:31 AM



I've seen rebuilt alternators shipped ( for the Saturn S-series ) with a
note attached to the alternator warning that failure to charge the battery
before putting the new alternator into service may cause premature failure.
My guess is they can't take the combined load of charging a low or dead
battery and running the car. The two I've blown happened after the vehicle
sat for an extended period of time. ( 2 -3 weeks while I was out of town )
At about 95k on a 95 SW2 and about 135k on a 95 SL2.
Both are auto trannies. I wonder how many blow shortly after the owner gets
a jump start and drives away with an uncharged battery ?


"BANDIT2941" <bandit2941 (AT) aol (DOT) comNHRA> wrote

Quote:
Not to mention the running load - is there a difference between the
failure rates of alternators in stick and automagic cars? Mine's stick
and only popped one in 200,000+ miles

Thats a good point. Mine's a stick and the only one I've broken in the 95k
miles I've owned the car was my own fault......much less than what people
make
it out to be.



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  #17  
Old   
Dan Duncan
 
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Default Re: alt or batt? - 09-03-2003 , 04:58 PM



Philip Nasadowski <nasadowsk (AT) usermale (DOT) com> wrote:
Quote:
Now, it seems to me there's a bit of vehicle off current draw. Maybe
what's killing everyone's alternator isn't a bad alternator, but a big
surge when recharging the battery that the alternator's a bit small for?
Not to mention the running load - is there a difference between the
failure rates of alternators in stick and automagic cars? Mine's stick
and only popped one in 200,000+ miles
My 1998 SW2 is a stick and I'm on the original battery and alternator
after 94k miles. I'll probably replace the battery before winter comes.

-DanD

--
# Dan Duncan (kd4igw) dand (AT) pcisys (DOT) net http://pcisys.net/~dand
# The right to be heard does not automatically include the right to be taken
# seriously. -- Hubert Humphrey


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  #18  
Old   
Philip Nasadowski
 
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Default Re: alt or batt? - 09-03-2003 , 08:38 PM



In article <20030901234337.18292.00000313 (AT) mb-m13 (DOT) aol.com>,
bandit2941 (AT) aol (DOT) comNHRA (BANDIT2941) wrote:

Quote:
Thats a good point. Mine's a stick and the only one I've broken in the 95k
miles I've owned the car was my own fault......much less than what people make
it out to be.
That's why I asked it

I'm starting to think the alternator isn't the culprit here. Yes, I
know the behind engine location is 'supposedly' bad (though I've never
seen temperature readings for both on top and behind locations), but I
seem to recall that the Saturn was one of the first cars with an
electronic tranny (was Chrysler's Ultradrive the first?), and having a
few solinoids in there adds a load even if they are just little pilot
types working the valves body. And another computer, etc etc etc.

Given the popularity of automatics, a difference in failure rates sure
would make it 'seem' that the alternators are weak. And we know
transmission shifting troubles are often a sign of impending alternator
doom...
--
To email me, chage 'usermale' to 'usermail'.


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  #19  
Old   
BANDIT2941
 
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Default Re: alt or batt? - 09-04-2003 , 10:41 AM



Quote:
I'm starting to think the alternator isn't the culprit here. Yes, I
know the behind engine location is 'supposedly' bad (though I've never
seen temperature readings for both on top and behind locations), but I
seem to recall that the Saturn was one of the first cars with an
electronic tranny (was Chrysler's Ultradrive the first?), and having a
few solinoids in there adds a load even if they are just little pilot
types working the valves body. And another computer, etc etc etc.

Given the popularity of automatics, a difference in failure rates sure
would make it 'seem' that the alternators are weak. And we know
transmission shifting troubles are often a sign of impending alternator
doom...
Very good points. Like you say.......since the majority drive automatics it
would 'seem' that the alternators themselves are the problem. Maybe there is
another cause.

Regardless though, the alternator installed in the vehicle should be tough
enough to withstand the stress that is put on it by that vehicle.


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