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#11
 
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Re: An actual car post... -
10-09-2009
, 10:24 PM
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But it's his car, so he knows how it should feel. |
DO remember is, when I park that car and then take my '89 Mazda for a
spin, I almost put myself through the windshield when I hit the brakes the
first time!
#12
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1989 Suby GL Coupe, AWD. One thing; the car has been siting since April, and the rotors were rusty. After just a few miles the driver's side rotor came clean, but the passenger's side just has a 1" stripe in the middle of the rotor. I'm going to have a look at that caliper and see if it's stuck open, scuff the rotor with a wire brush and install the pads and see what happens. |
one circuit and the LF and RR is the other. You have air in the
circuit you didn't bleed. Your brakes will always suck until both
circuits are bled. No getting around this.
#13
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On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 00:03:01 +0000, Tegger wrote: And parts are becoming scarcer than parts for my Supra! That's one big problem with owning older cars that aren't considered "collector" cars. I'm even running into parts unavailability for certain trim components with our '99 Tercel. Thanks for the tips on the piston. Running out of parts for a '99?!?! (did they *MAKE* a '99? I thought it ended in '98 and the Echo took over. ) |
The later Tercels sold so poorly in the US that Toyota stopped imports
after the '98 MY. The rest of the world (including Canada) did get the '99
Tercel.
2000 was the first year for the Echo.
Oddly, even though the '99 Tercel was never sold in the US, the Canadian-
market '99 Tercel has a California-certified engine. Figure that one out.
--
Tegger
#14
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On Oct 9, 5:46 pm, Hachiroku ハチ*ク <Tru... (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote: 1989 Suby GL Coupe, AWD. One thing; the car has been siting since April, and the rotors were rusty. After just a few miles the driver's side rotor came clean, but the passenger's side just has a 1" stripe in the middle of the rotor. I'm going to have a look at that caliper and see if it's stuck open, scuff the rotor with a wire brush and install the pads and see what happens. That makes sense. Car has 2 brake diagonal circuits. RF and LR is one circuit and the LF and RR is the other. You have air in the circuit you didn't bleed. Your brakes will always suck until both circuits are bled. No getting around this. |
Gee, thanks a LOT, John!
I'm going to try, very gingerly, to loosen the stuck bleeder tomorrow.
Also, the pass side caliper was stuck in the open position, and after an
hour with emory cloth, Dremel, Syl-Glide and a Mighty-Vac seems to be
working OK. The puck wasn't stuck, the sliders were.
Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was flowing
out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was building and
building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP! and the juice
started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see anything, but considering
I just about completely refilled the cup 3 times the other day, it sure
was dirty.
#15
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=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in news  an.2009.10.10.02.21.59.284057 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS:On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 00:03:01 +0000, Tegger wrote: And parts are becoming scarcer than parts for my Supra! That's one big problem with owning older cars that aren't considered "collector" cars. I'm even running into parts unavailability for certain trim components with our '99 Tercel. Thanks for the tips on the piston. Running out of parts for a '99?!?! (did they *MAKE* a '99? I thought it ended in '98 and the Echo took over. ) The later Tercels sold so poorly in the US that Toyota stopped imports after the '98 MY. The rest of the world (including Canada) did get the '99 Tercel. 2000 was the first year for the Echo. Oddly, even though the '99 Tercel was never sold in the US, the Canadian- market '99 Tercel has a California-certified engine. Figure that one out. |
#16
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On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 04:10:48 -0700, johninky wrote: On Oct 9, 5:46 pm, Hachiroku ???? <Tru... (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote: 1989 Suby GL Coupe, AWD. One thing; the car has been siting since April, and the rotors were rusty. After just a few miles the driver's side rotor came clean, but the passenger's side just has a 1" stripe in the middle of the rotor. I'm going to have a look at that caliper and see if it's stuck open, scuff the rotor with a wire brush and install the pads and see what happens. That makes sense. Car has 2 brake diagonal circuits. RF and LR is one circuit and the LF and RR is the other. You have air in the circuit you didn't bleed. Your brakes will always suck until both circuits are bled. No getting around this. Gee, thanks a LOT, John! I'm going to try, very gingerly, to loosen the stuck bleeder tomorrow. Also, the pass side caliper was stuck in the open position, and after an hour with emory cloth, Dremel, Syl-Glide and a Mighty-Vac seems to be working OK. The puck wasn't stuck, the sliders were. Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty. |
lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose flap from the
lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a spongy feel with poor
braking performance. On the wheel in question, if applying the brakes
doesn't move the caliper piston and you know the piston and sliders are
free, then the hose is suspect.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
#17
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Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty. When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question, if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is suspect. |
This is NOT good news...
#18
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On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote: Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty. When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question, if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is suspect. Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this... This is NOT good news... |
one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the metal brake line
from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will probably need a flare
nut wrench to break the connections free. IIRC, you will need a 10 mm
wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on a Subie.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
#19
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"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message news an.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote: Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty. When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question, if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is suspect. Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this... This is NOT good news... Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the metal brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will probably need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. IIRC, you will need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on a Subie. |
they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed it with
GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) and the hose
is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby dealer. Most of the
parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!)
#20
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1989 Suby GL Coupe, AWD. Spongy brakes. I did the obvious and flushed/bled, but it didn't help a lot. I got a set of pads and waiting for the weather to clear. This car has disc fronts and drum rears. When I did the flush/fill I was unable to loosen the bleeder on the left rear backing, and didn't want to snap it off, so that one is not flushed, but what came out didn't look too bad, anyway. One thing; the car has been siting since April, and the rotors were rusty. After just a few miles the driver's side rotor came clean, but the passenger's side just has a 1" stripe in the middle of the rotor. I'm going to have a look at that caliper and see if it's stuck open, scuff the rotor with a wire brush and install the pads and see what happens. Too bad the rest of the car didn't stay as nice as the motor and tranny...they're great. And parts are becoming scarcer than parts for my Supra! |
the question. Fer sure..Mom teach you that?
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