An actual car post...

#21

On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:50:17 -0500, Ray O wrote:

Quote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote:

Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was
flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was
building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP!
and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see
anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3
times the other day, it sure was dirty.

When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the
interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose
flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a
spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question,
if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know
the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is suspect.

Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this...

This is NOT good news...

Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the
flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the
metal
brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will
probably need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. IIRC,
you will need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on a Subie.

I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. Yeah,
they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed it with
GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) and the hose
is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby dealer. Most of
the parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!)

GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service
department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a
couple of cans handy

Yup! Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Lube. ~$9-12 a can, depending if you
get it from Chevy or Buick.

#22

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote

Quote:

On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote:

Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was
flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was
building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP!
and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see
anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3
times the other day, it sure was dirty.

When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the
interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose flap
from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a spongy feel
with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question, if applying
the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know the piston and
sliders are free, then the hose is suspect.

Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this...

This is NOT good news...

Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the
flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the
metal
brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will probably
need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. IIRC, you will
need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on a Subie.

I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. Yeah,
they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed it with
GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) and the hose
is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby dealer. Most of the
parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!)

GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service
department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a
couple of cans handy
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

#23

On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:23:54 -0500, Ray O wrote:

Quote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.12.01.25.03.131892 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:50:17 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote:

Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was
flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was
building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a
SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't
see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the
cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty.

When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the
interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose
flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a
spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in
question, if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston
and you know the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is
suspect.

Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this...

This is NOT good news...

Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the
flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the
metal
brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will
probably need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free.
IIRC, you will need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on
a Subie.

I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning.
Yeah, they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed
it with GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...)
and the hose is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby
dealer. Most of the parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!)

GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service
department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a
couple of cans handy

Yup! Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Lube. ~$9-12 a can, depending if you
get it from Chevy or Buick.

Which is cheaper - Chevy or Buick?

In my case, Buick!

#24

Hachiroku ãƒãƒãƒ*ã‚¯ wrote:

Quote:

On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 19:24:36 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:

But it's his car, so he knows how it should feel.

Actually, it's only been mine for about 2 years, and winter only. What I
DO remember is, when I park that car and then take my '89 Mazda for a
spin, I almost put myself through the windshield when I hit the brakes the
first time!

The 84 GL station wagon I used to have had less than great brakes. Don't
expect too much.

When you screw in the pistons, make sure you orient the slot on the
piston in the same direction that it was in. A pin in the pad fits in
that slot - it keeps the piston from rotating.

The caliper design is pretty much a copy of a early 70's Fiat caliper
design. How odd!

#25

On Oct 10, 6:49 pm, Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B <Tru... (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote:

Quote:

I'm going to try, very gingerly, to loosen the stuck bleeder tomorrow.

I usually let em soak with rust buster for as long as possible.
Then carefully whack it with a hammer, wrench, etc on the head
of it to help break the rust loose from the threads. Pop it 2-3 times
if need be. They will usually come out after that.

#26

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote

Quote:

On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:50:17 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote:

Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was
flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was
building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP!
and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see
anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3
times the other day, it sure was dirty.

When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the
interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose
flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a
spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question,
if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know
the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is suspect.

Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this...

This is NOT good news...

Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the
flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the
metal
brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will
probably need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. IIRC,
you will need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on a Subie.

I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. Yeah,
they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed it with
GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) and the hose
is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby dealer. Most of
the parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!)

GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service
department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a
couple of cans handy

Yup! Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Lube. ~$9-12 a can, depending if you
get it from Chevy or Buick.

Which is cheaper - Chevy or Buick?

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

#27

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote

Quote:

On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:23:54 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.12.01.25.03.131892 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:50:17 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote:

Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was
flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was
building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a
SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't
see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the
cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty.

When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the
interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose
flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a
spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in
question, if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston
and you know the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is
suspect.

Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this...

This is NOT good news...

Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the
flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the
metal
brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will
probably need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free.
IIRC, you will need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on
a Subie.

I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning.
Yeah, they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed
it with GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...)
and the hose is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby
dealer. Most of the parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!)

GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service
department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a
couple of cans handy

Yup! Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Lube. ~$9-12 a can, depending if you
get it from Chevy or Buick.

Which is cheaper - Chevy or Buick?

In my case, Buick!

I'll have to check out the local GM dealer parts department!
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

#28

"dsi1" <dsi1 (AT) spamnet (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

Hachiroku ???? wrote:
On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 19:24:36 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:

But it's his car, so he knows how it should feel.

Actually, it's only been mine for about 2 years, and winter only. What I
DO remember is, when I park that car and then take my '89 Mazda for a
spin, I almost put myself through the windshield when I hit the brakes
the
first time!

The 84 GL station wagon I used to have had less than great brakes. Don't
expect too much.

When you screw in the pistons, make sure you orient the slot on the
piston in the same direction that it was in. A pin in the pad fits in
that slot - it keeps the piston from rotating.

The caliper design is pretty much a copy of a early 70's Fiat caliper
design. How odd!

Not really all that odd. As a former Fiat mechanic I can
tell you that many Fiat first features (brake, OHC engine,
carburetor ... designs) were later found on domestic cars.

#29

"Ray O" <rokigawa (AT) NOSPAMtristarassociates (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote:

"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message
news

an.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...
On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote:

Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was
flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was
building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP!
and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see
anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3
times the other day, it sure was dirty.

When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the
interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose
flap
from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a spongy
feel
with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question, if applying
the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know the piston
and
sliders are free, then the hose is suspect.

Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this...

This is NOT good news...

Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the
flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the
metal
brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will
probably
need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. IIRC, you will
need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on a Subie.

I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. Yeah,
they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed it with
GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) and the hose
is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby dealer. Most of
the
parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!)

GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service
department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a
couple of cans handy
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Best penetrating oil I've ever used, has NEVER once,
given sufficient time, failed to perform par excellence.

#30

<nm5k (AT) wt (DOT) net> wrote

Quote:

On Oct 10, 6:49 pm, Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B <Tru... (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote:

I'm going to try, very gingerly, to loosen the stuck bleeder tomorrow.

I usually let em soak with rust buster for as long as possible.
Then carefully whack it with a hammer, wrench, etc on the head
of it to help break the rust loose from the threads. Pop it 2-3 times
if need be. They will usually come out after that.

In addition, when no protective cap is present, I always
also use a pin vise and drill rust, sediment, what have you
from the hole to assist the rust penetrant to infiltrate. When
assembling, I'm certain to install a cap and spread a very
light smear of antiseize on the outermost meshing threads.