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#31
 
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Re: An actual car post... -
10-12-2009
, 02:51 PM
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"Ray O" <rokigawa (AT) NOSPAMtristarassociates (DOT) com> wrote in message news:hau275$eut$1 (AT) news (DOT) eternal-september.org... "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message news  an.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote: "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message news an.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote: Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty. When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question, if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is suspect. Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this... This is NOT good news... Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the metal brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will probably need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. IIRC, you will need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on a Subie. I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. Yeah, they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed it with GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) and the hose is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby dealer. Most of the parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!) GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a couple of cans handy -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply) Best penetrating oil I've ever used, has NEVER once, given sufficient time, failed to perform par excellence. |
available so I was very stingy with the last can I had.
Chrysler dealers also had a heat riser lubricant in the same shape can with
the same big white nozzle that I suspect was supplied by the same company
that supplied GM's, but I have never used Chrysler's stuff so I don't know
if it works as well as GM stuff.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
#32
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On 2009-10-12, Heron McKeister <not (AT) home (DOT) com> wrote: Not really all that odd. As a former Fiat mechanic I can tell you that many Fiat first features (brake, OHC engine, carburetor ... designs) were later found on domestic cars. Some of those features go back a good few years in the U.S The 1949 Crosley featured disc brakes and an OHC 4-cylinder. engine. -- Roger Blake |
the actual design of the components which were
often indistinguishable or nearly so from one another.
#33
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"Ray O" <rokigawa (AT) NOSPAMtristarassociates (DOT) com> wrote in message news:hau275$eut$1 (AT) news (DOT) eternal-september.org... "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message news an.2009.10.11.23.30.54.466484 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 00:11:15 -0500, Ray O wrote: "Hachiroku ????" <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS> wrote in message news an.2009.10.11.03.34.02.715692 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS...On Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:57:18 -0500, Ray O wrote: Interesting thing: I beld the brakes the other day, and juice was flowing out, but when I did the pass side caliper the pressure was building and building and all of a sudden there was kind of a SLURP! and the juice started filling the cup. I looked and didn't see anything, but considering I just about completely refilled the cup 3 times the other day, it sure was dirty. When the pressure builds that way and then just pops loose, the interior lining of the brake hose could be deteriorated. A loose flap from the lining could act as an obstruction, resulting in a spongy feel with poor braking performance. On the wheel in question, if applying the brakes doesn't move the caliper piston and you know the piston and sliders are free, then the hose is suspect. Hmmmm....I think I'll have another look at this... This is NOT good news... Hoses are cheaper than calipers - the hose in question would be the flexible one between the body and caliper or wheel cylinder, not the metal brake line from the master cylinder to the flex hose. You will probably need a flare nut wrench to break the connections free. IIRC, you will need a 10 mm wrench on a Toyota, probably the same on a Subie. I took a look at the setup when I did the other side this morning. Yeah, they join at the inner fender. Doesn't look too tough. I sprayed it with GM Heat Riser Lubricant (IMHO, much better then Blaster...) and the hose is $22 from AZ, but I'll bet it's cheaper from a Suby dealer. Most of the parts I've bought for this have been! (Go figure!) GM Heat Riser Lubricant is still available? One of the GM service department techs turned me on to the stuff, and I always used to keep a couple of cans handy -- Ray O (correct punctuation to reply) Best penetrating oil I've ever used, has NEVER once, given sufficient time, failed to perform par excellence. |
Once it gets in the threads, rust doesn't stand a chance!
#34
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1989 Suby GL Coupe, AWD. Spongy brakes. I did the obvious and flushed/bled, but it didn't help a lot. |
mentioned, so I'll throw in my $.02. Pardon if you've been there
already.
Check that the "floating" mechanism on your calipers is working
smoothly. The pins that mount the caliper tend to get rusty/gummy over
time, and no longer allow the caliper to "float" to adjust for pad
wear. This condition will decidedly cause the brakes to feel
weak/mushy, and it'll be one of those things that kinda creeps up on
you.
A sure sign is one pad worn _way_ more than the other, but even if you
don't see this, always check/lubricate the caliper's mounting pins
when you service the brakes.
Hope this helps.
ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101
#35
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| I would not. Run your fingernail down a brand-new piston. Does it hang up or catch anywhere? No. Now run your fingernail down a surface that's been emeried even with fine cloth. /Big/ difference. Any roughness will result in a sticky piston, plus it will wear the hydraulic seal very quickly. Emerying the cylinder bore is somewhat less objectionable, provided it's cleaned thoroughly afterwards. Clean off any gum on the pistons with solvent. If rust remains or if the cleaned surface catches your fingernail anywhere, replace the piston. Tegger |
will polish and does a great job of cleaning up microabrasive surfaces. It
is perfectly safe to use on cylinders or pistons.
Sorry I missed the point that his drain was on a rear caliper. Doesnt make
much difference, actually. I have redone rears as well as fronts. They ARE
different, but not that complicated.
#36
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On Fri, 9 Oct 2009 18:53:11 -0500, "hls" <hls (AT) nospam (DOT) nix> wrote: Since it's rear shoes it's a wheel cylinder. Cheap to replace. But I've sometimes just bled at the line connection instead, and had no sponginess. And people define sponginess differently. Sometimes it's normal pedal travel. But it's his car, so he knows how it should feel. --Vic |
If it is rear discs, then you have to make a decision. Rear discs
are not so hard to work on, but if you snap off a bleed valve, you
may be committed to buying a new caliper.
Yes, a good machine shop MIGHT be able to get the old
one out, but the expense can overpower just getting a junkyard unit
and rebuilding (as I did), or even buying new.
#37
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"Tegger" <invalid (AT) invalid (DOT) inv> wrote in message >> I would emery cloth the pistons and cylinders, I would not. Run your fingernail down a brand-new piston. Does it hang up or catch anywhere? No. Now run your fingernail down a surface that's been emeried even with fine cloth. /Big/ difference. Any roughness will result in a sticky piston, plus it will wear the hydraulic seal very quickly. Emerying the cylinder bore is somewhat less objectionable, provided it's cleaned thoroughly afterwards. Clean off any gum on the pistons with solvent. If rust remains or if the cleaned surface catches your fingernail anywhere, replace the piston. Tegger I should have said "crocus cloth" rather than emery. Sorry. Crocus cloth will polish and does a great job of cleaning up microabrasive surfaces. It is perfectly safe to use on cylinders or pistons. Sorry I missed the point that his drain was on a rear caliper. Doesnt make much difference, actually. I have redone rears as well as fronts. They ARE different, but not that complicated. |
I got it loose with Heat Riser lube and...Vise-Grips.
All bled, all working. Sort of. I'm used to a Supra and a Scion. Much less
pedal pressure required...
#38
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I got it loose with Heat Riser lube and...Vise-Grips. |
No duct tape? For shame.
Quote:
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All bled, all working. Sort of. I'm used to a Supra and a Scion. Much less pedal pressure required... |
Try a 1974 Chev Nova with unassisted drums all around...
--
Tegger
#39
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=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS wrote in news an.2009.10.21.22.35.26.574934 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS:I got it loose with Heat Riser lube and...Vise-Grips. No duct tape? For shame. All bled, all working. Sort of. I'm used to a Supra and a Scion. Much less pedal pressure required... Try a 1974 Chev Nova with unassisted drums all around... -- Tegger |
workout on that as well.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
#40
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"Tegger" <invalid (AT) invalid (DOT) inv> wrote in message news:Xns9CABCEE43E616tegger (AT) 208 (DOT) 90.168.18... =?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= <Trueno (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS wrote in news an.2009.10.21.22.35.26.574934 (AT) e86 (DOT) GTS:I got it loose with Heat Riser lube and...Vise-Grips. No duct tape? For shame. All bled, all working. Sort of. I'm used to a Supra and a Scion. Much less pedal pressure required... Try a 1974 Chev Nova with unassisted drums all around... -- Tegger I had a '72 Chevelle with unassisted drums all around - braking was a workout on that as well. |
ratio verses assist. KB
--
THUNDERSNAKE #9
Protect your rights or "Lose" them
The 2nd Admendment guarantees the others
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