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#11
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#12
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OH - well so much for that. The warranty is long over for me. I wonder how much a dealer would charge me to do that, then? If I called them and asked them for an estimate on performing that TSB, they should be able to give me a ballpark figure, right? On Feb 3, 6:58 pm, "Blair Baucom" <jbbau... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote: During the warranty period. Blair "M. Baker" <thebakers... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1170539440.768036.299850 (AT) a34g2000cwb (DOT) googlegroups.com... Thanks - I tried squeezing the triangle of plastic, and it didn't do anything. I just have a basic wagon, so I don't think there's any speakers in there. I might look into having a dealer look at the TSB issue - that would be free if it was the cause, right? On Feb 2, 10:14 pm, "Fred" <davidmru... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote: There is a TSB on wind noise. I replaced the gussets on my 01 Legacy and its very quiet now. Body - Door Mirror Wind Noise NUMBER: 12-82-04 DATE: 04/15/04 APPLICABILITY: 20000-2004MY Legacy/Outback & Baja SUBJECT: Door Mirror Gusset Wind Noise INTRODUCTION The purpose of this bulletin is to address wind noise coming from either the left or right mirror gussets. PART NUMBER INFORMATION INFORMATION Should you encounter a customer complaint of wind noise and determine the noise is from the door mirror gusset area, proceed as follows: You can determine if the wind noise is coming from the gusset area by pushing on the glass during a road test or by taping off the gusset area. Repair Procedure 1) With the door open, ensure the window glass is in a full-rest, closed position. Close the door. 2) Measure the clearance between the front door glass and the door gusset at both the inner side and outer side with a thickness gauge. If the clearance is less than 0.2 mm the wind noise may be coming from somewhere else. If the measurement is 0.2 mm or more, proceed to step (3). 3) Retract the glass completely, then measure the clearance between the left and right lips (see the picture). If the clearance is less than 5 mm, the door gusset does not need to be replaced. Go to step (6). If the dearance is 5 mm or more, proceed to step (4) 4) Replace it with the new style door gusset. Refer to the applicable service manual for replacement procedures. After the installation of the new gusset is complete, go to step (5). Right Gusset PN 61158AE00B Left Gusset PN 61158AE01B 5) With the new gusset installed, repeat step (1). Next, re-measure the clearance between the door gusset and the door glass with a thickness gauge. If there is no clearance at both inner side and outer side, no further action is required. However, if there is a clearance at either the inner side or outer side, proceed with the following. 6) With the door panel removed, turn the adjuster bolt for the door gusset to tilt the door gusset toward the smaller clearance. Note :When tilting the door gusset to the outer side, turn the adjuster bolt clockwise. When tilting it to the inner side, turn the adjuster bolt counter-clockwise. The adjuster bolt has a screw lock on the threads. If it is difficult to turn, remove the gusset and turn it while holding the head with pliers. For vehicles within the Basic New Car Warranty period, refer to the Warranty Labor Time Guide for claim information.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#13
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#14
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Thanks - I'm contacting the dealer now and will post what they come back with. What is the difference between a TSB and a Recall? Because recalls repairs are no-cost to the car owner, even if it's past the warranty period, right? Just wondered... |
#15
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OH - well so much for that. The warranty is long over for me. I wonder how much a dealer would charge me to do that, then? If I called them and asked them for an estimate on performing that TSB, they should be able to give me a ballpark figure, right? On Feb 3, 6:58 pm, "Blair Baucom" <jbbau... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote: During the warranty period. Blair "M. Baker" <thebakers... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1170539440.768036.299850 (AT) a34g2000cwb (DOT) googlegroups.com... Thanks - I tried squeezing the triangle of plastic, and it didn't do anything. I just have a basic wagon, so I don't think there's any speakers in there. I might look into having a dealer look at the TSB issue - that would be free if it was the cause, right? On Feb 2, 10:14 pm, "Fred" <davidmru... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote: There is a TSB on wind noise. I replaced the gussets on my 01 Legacy and its very quiet now. Body - Door Mirror Wind Noise NUMBER: 12-82-04 DATE: 04/15/04 APPLICABILITY: 20000-2004MY Legacy/Outback & Baja SUBJECT: Door Mirror Gusset Wind Noise INTRODUCTION The purpose of this bulletin is to address wind noise coming from either the left or right mirror gussets. PART NUMBER INFORMATION INFORMATION Should you encounter a customer complaint of wind noise and determine the noise is from the door mirror gusset area, proceed as follows: You can determine if the wind noise is coming from the gusset area by pushing on the glass during a road test or by taping off the gusset area. Repair Procedure 1) With the door open, ensure the window glass is in a full-rest, closed position. Close the door. 2) Measure the clearance between the front door glass and the door gusset at both the inner side and outer side with a thickness gauge. If the clearance is less than 0.2 mm the wind noise may be coming from somewhere else. If the measurement is 0.2 mm or more, proceed to step (3). 3) Retract the glass completely, then measure the clearance between the left and right lips (see the picture). If the clearance is less than 5 mm, the door gusset does not need to be replaced. Go to step (6). If the dearance is 5 mm or more, proceed to step (4) 4) Replace it with the new style door gusset. Refer to the applicable service manual for replacement procedures. After the installation of the new gusset is complete, go to step (5). Right Gusset PN 61158AE00B Left Gusset PN 61158AE01B 5) With the new gusset installed, repeat step (1). Next, re-measure the clearance between the door gusset and the door glass with a thickness gauge. If there is no clearance at both inner side and outer side, no further action is required. However, if there is a clearance at either the inner side or outer side, proceed with the following. 6) With the door panel removed, turn the adjuster bolt for the door gusset to tilt the door gusset toward the smaller clearance. Note :When tilting the door gusset to the outer side, turn the adjuster bolt clockwise. When tilting it to the inner side, turn the adjuster bolt counter-clockwise. The adjuster bolt has a screw lock on the threads. If it is difficult to turn, remove the gusset and turn it while holding the head with pliers. For vehicles within the Basic New Car Warranty period, refer to the Warranty Labor Time Guide for claim information.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Have u tried lowering the window and squishing the rubber together? If |
#16
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On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:26:44 -0600, Carl 1 Lucky Texan alckytxn (AT) swbell (DOT) not> wrote: Have u tried lowering the window and squishing the rubber together? If you do that and train youself to NOT close the door pushing on the glass, the fix lasts a long time - at least it does on my wife's Outback. A picture would help. If someone can post a picture showing what is being squeezed and how, it would benefit many. -- Dan Langille PGCON -The PostgresSQL Conference http://www.pgcon.org/ |
#17
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Yes, a picture would be great. Not sure what rubber needs to be squished? It seems more like a tension issue between the glass and the rubber, to me. If the glass fit more snugly to the rubber, it would seem the noise would stop. Dan Langille wrote: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:26:44 -0600, Carl 1 Lucky Texan alckytxn (AT) swbell (DOT) not> wrote: Have u tried lowering the window and squishing the rubber together? If you do that and train youself to NOT close the door pushing on the glass, the fix lasts a long time - at least it does on my wife's Outback. A picture would help. If someone can post a picture showing what is being squeezed and how, it would benefit many. -- Dan Langille PGCON -The PostgresSQL Conference http://www.pgcon.org/ |
#18
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M. Baker wrote: Yes, a picture would be great. Not sure what rubber needs to be squished? It seems more like a tension issue between the glass and the rubber, to me. If the glass fit more snugly to the rubber, it would seem the noise would stop. Dan Langille wrote: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:26:44 -0600, Carl 1 Lucky Texan alcky... (AT) swbell (DOT) not> wrote: Have u tried lowering the window and squishing the rubber together? If you do that and train youself to NOT close the door pushing on the glass, the fix lasts a long time - at least it does on my wife's Outback. A picture would help. If someone can post a picture showing what is being squeezed and how, it would benefit many. -- Dan Langille PGCON -The PostgresSQL Conference http://www.pgcon.org/ The black, triangular object to which the outside mirror is attached that is on the forward part of the door;http://www.burnleycaraudio.co.uk/upl...WR1%20Door.jpg or http://tinyurl.com/2bd3nk has some rubber 'lips' on its rear openeing in which the glass slides. Those lips can be pushed together by exerting an inward force on the mirror and an outward force on the inside (or tweeter area if so equipped) of the triangle. Even though the sound often appears to come from higher up and more rearward (to me anyway) this action really does help. Other folks have found that useing pieces of masking tape on the mirror mount, wiper arm, winshield gasket, etc. has helped them find noise generators. If youe winshield or wipers have been replaced, that can create noise. Also, on wagons, sometimes the crossbars can be noisy if in the wrong position or installed backwards. Carl -- to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#19
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Oh - I already tried that and it didn't make any difference in the wind noise. And I don't have crossbars up top. On Feb 13, 5:26 pm, Carl 1 Lucky Texan <alcky... (AT) swbell (DOT) not> wrote: M. Baker wrote: Yes, a picture would be great. Not sure what rubber needs to be squished? It seems more like a tension issue between the glass and the rubber, to me. If the glass fit more snugly to the rubber, it would seem the noise would stop. Dan Langille wrote: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:26:44 -0600, Carl 1 Lucky Texan alcky... (AT) swbell (DOT) not> wrote: Have u tried lowering the window and squishing the rubber together? If you do that and train youself to NOT close the door pushing on the glass, the fix lasts a long time - at least it does on my wife's Outback. A picture would help. If someone can post a picture showing what is being squeezed and how, it would benefit many. -- Dan Langille PGCON -The PostgresSQL Conference http://www.pgcon.org/ The black, triangular object to which the outside mirror is attached that is on the forward part of the door;http://www.burnleycaraudio.co.uk/upl...WR1%20Door.jpg or http://tinyurl.com/2bd3nk has some rubber 'lips' on its rear openeing in which the glass slides. Those lips can be pushed together by exerting an inward force on the mirror and an outward force on the inside (or tweeter area if so equipped) of the triangle. Even though the sound often appears to come from higher up and more rearward (to me anyway) this action really does help. Other folks have found that useing pieces of masking tape on the mirror mount, wiper arm, winshield gasket, etc. has helped them find noise generators. If youe winshield or wipers have been replaced, that can create noise. Also, on wagons, sometimes the crossbars can be noisy if in the wrong position or installed backwards. Carl -- to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Then I would try some tape in that area. If it helps, probably need |
#20
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Oh - I already tried that and it didn't make any difference in the wind noise. And I don't have crossbars up top. On Feb 13, 5:26 pm, Carl 1 Lucky Texan <alcky... (AT) swbell (DOT) not> wrote: M. Baker wrote: Yes, a picture would be great. Not sure what rubber needs to be squished? It seems more like a tension issue between the glass and the rubber, to me. If the glass fit more snugly to the rubber, it would seem the noise would stop. Dan Langille wrote: On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:26:44 -0600, Carl 1 Lucky Texan alcky... (AT) swbell (DOT) not> wrote: Have u tried lowering the window and squishing the rubber together? If you do that and train youself to NOT close the door pushing on the glass, the fix lasts a long time - at least it does on my wife's Outback. A picture would help. If someone can post a picture showing what is being squeezed and how, it would benefit many. -- Dan Langille PGCON -The PostgresSQL Conference http://www.pgcon.org/ The black, triangular object to which the outside mirror is attached that is on the forward part of the door;http://www.burnleycaraudio.co.uk/upl...WR1%20Door.jpg or http://tinyurl.com/2bd3nk has some rubber 'lips' on its rear openeing in which the glass slides. Those lips can be pushed together by exerting an inward force on the mirror and an outward force on the inside (or tweeter area if so equipped) of the triangle. Even though the sound often appears to come from higher up and more rearward (to me anyway) this action really does help. Other folks have found that useing pieces of masking tape on the mirror mount, wiper arm, winshield gasket, etc. has helped them find noise generators. If youe winshield or wipers have been replaced, that can create noise. Also, on wagons, sometimes the crossbars can be noisy if in the wrong position or installed backwards. Carl -- to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
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