I have a ticking n/s cv joint on my legacy estate which I will be
removing shortly could anyone who has removed their shaft tell me if (like
various Toyotas) it has a seal which prevents the front box dropping its oil
or is it a drain the front end diff first job?
Derek

"Del" <delwatts@.spammy.cwcom.net> wrote


Well Subaru dose something different. THe inner joint slips over a small
shaft that sticks out of the transmission. The joint is held on using a
small roll pin that you will need to tap out using a hammer and punch. When
you put things back togrether, you must have the holes for the joint and
shaft lined-up correctly, It may look like the pin will go back in if the
holes are 180deg off but it won't .

"Del" <delwatts@.spammy.cwcom.net> wrote


Oil seal is in the transmission, no oil comes out.
Knock out the roll pin at the inner cv joint to remove the shaft, line up
the holes when putting it back. One side of the hole has a chamfer, both on
the cv and the shaft on the transmsission. Line these when re-installing.
Outer end needs to have the axle nut removed, and ball joint disconnected so
you can swing out the wheel hub to remove the axle shaft from the hub, then
pull it out from the transmission. Make sure the car is safely jacked (jack
stands or hoist).
Ed

on its way) but past experience has shown that little things like seals or
absence of seals are not mentioned which is why my driveway looks like the
Exxon Valdez was parked last week after replacing a driveshaft on a Ford
Fiesta
Derek

ed wrote:

Are you sure about disconnecting the ball joint? I'm getting ready to
do this for the first time (on any car) and just want to make sure I
have the right instructions. My Haynes manual says to disconnect the
"control arm" from the "steering knuckle". Is disconnecting the ball
joint an alternate way, or in addition to this?

Just want to get clear as possible befor eI actually do this.

Thanks,
Steve

<nospam (AT) usa (DOT) net> wrote

it so I removed the two bolts from the bottom of the strut tube and
separated the hub assembly- it just slides out and the driveshaft then pulls
free, cost of bearing remanufacture was £53 plus £6 (?) for a new hub nut
all i have to do is put it back in
Derek

The ball joint connects the control arm to the steering knuckle. You can
remove the 2 bolts at the strut tube but this will throw off the wheel
alignment; removing the ball joint doesn't affect the alignment, but if the
ball joint mounting is really rusted in place (don't force any bolts or they
might break), then it's easier to remove the strut bolts than the ball
joint, but needing an alignment check afterwards. If you remove the strut
bolts, you could use a bubble level on the hub surface to check the angle
and re-set the same angle on re-assembly, and this would be very close to
what it was before.



"Del" <delwatts@.spammy.cwcom.net> wrote