In article <hflge15vj9psqsgcvos2k62up16uhrmnr7 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com>,
JaySee <iPoop (AT) Home (DOT) Shit> wrote:

Yeah, he is. But I can't see any point in your procedure, at least on
my 2.5l Legacy. I've tried it. The torque converter stall speed is
only a tad over 2000 rpm so the engine isn't *really* into the power
yet. Just hit the gas from idle and it's there in an instant -- and I
think with more *punch*.

I can see how it might be useful to do that to spool up a turbo though,
if anyone buys turbo automatics.

--
Bruce | 41.1670S | \ spoken | -+-
Hoult | 174.8263E | /\ here. | ----------O----------

In article <cpKdnXzOeLdiJnrfRVn-gQ (AT) mycybernet (DOT) net>, "grape" <j@s>
wrote:

An auto well maintained, which is only a proper oil change for modern
autos which auto adjust, will last for many miles. I assume Subrau has
a modern auto.
With a manual the clutch and sync rings will wear. In city driving this
wear is very significant.

My oldie '95 Chrysler has 7 shift points. It has 4 gears with lockup on
the top 3 gears. I downshift on hills. In cruise control it downshifts
itself.
I'm sure I couldn't get more mileage with a manual although I could
probably get a few split seconds more acceleration, which isn't required.
As for driving in snow I prefer the auto on startup, as I can control
wheel spin better. In snow I downshift at times to avoid it running
away at too high a speed on down slopes.

So my suggestion is an auto unless you drive only on the highway.

--
Someone ?

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 12:53:18 -0400, "grape" <j@s> wrote:

No. Anyone who gets leg pain from using a clutch is desperately unfit.
Anybody with normal levels of fitness, ie capable of walking a few
miles, will have no problems.

Yes, as long as it has been properly looked after a used car is always
a better option than a new car. Any delivery/initial manufacture
faults have been dealt with under warranty and the initial
depreciation has taken place.

David Betts
davidb (AT) motorsport (DOT) org.uk

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 16:45:22 -0700, Rick Courtright
<rcourtright (AT) iname (DOT) com> wrote:

The difference on a Rex is between 25.000 and 65,000 miles. Don't know
anybody who has got much more than 65 out of a clutch. The point is -
and I've made this before - that a powerful awd car can't dissipate
excess power at launch as wheelspin, therefore it has to slip the
clutch. Also, powerful awd drive cars put a trememdous load on their
transmission and there has to be a weak link somewhere. Much cheaper
and simpler to change a clutch than to change a gearbox <g>. Simply
regard it as a consumable - like tyres and brakes.

David Betts
davidb (AT) motorsport (DOT) org.uk

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 20:47:59 -0400, "grape" <j@s> wrote:


Ignore the trolls. Subarus are amongst the best built, best engineered
most reliable cars in the world. Plenty of evidence in the customer
satisfaction surveys.

David Betts
davidb (AT) motorsport (DOT) org.uk

Bruce Hoult wrote:

I've never bothered. With a tiptronic auto b4, the first turbo seems to
cut in about 2300/2500 rpm, though I don't tend to launch from a set of
lights. I'm not in that much of a hurry around town
It's the 80 to something over 100km that's more useful, especially
around articulated stock trucks.

manual tranny durability can't outrun auto?! your the first who tells the
contrary of most people do.....
"Someone HateSpam" <someone_no_spam (AT) moon (DOT) net> wrote

"Bruce Hoult" <bruce (AT) hoult (DOT) org> wrote

Proper way to launch an automatic WRX.....shift car to neutral and press
brake pedal hard, rev motor to about 4,500 RPM (you'll feel the brake pedal
go down another 1/2 inch or so) return gas pedal to idle position but do not
let off brake, shift car into "3", press gas pedal to floor, leave on last
yellow light (when racing at track), cut .500 light...be happy.

At least this is the method I use...oh and for those that have an auto wrx,
a highstall Torque Converter from protorque is bar none the best investment
you can make if you want to be fast in the 1/4 mile.

"grape" <j@s> wrote

In a WRX, yes. The stock 5 speed is shitty, the auto is much more rugged
and handles WAY more power.

"David Betts" <dabetts (AT) ntlworld (DOT) com> wrote


Trolls aside, but are you suggesting that Subaru has not had
some fairly serious quality problems in recent years? Are you
blind perhaps?

The rear-wheel bearing issue is certainly well known, and so is
the head gasket problem. Both of these are real, expensive
to fix issues, and definetely not imagined ones!!!

I almost had to dish out 800 USD for rear bearings replacement.
Both failed at 19k miles- out of basic warranty, as if the car
was not a Japanese brand but some lousy quality Chrysler from
the 80s. This was an absolutely unexcusable failure at such low
milage.

Subaru does want to admitt the bearings faultiness but it is widely
known among Impreza owners that some of their bearings are
utter crap. The Subaru dealer when pressed hard agreed not
to charge me for the parts (as a gesture of goodwill on their part).
I am thankful for that, but I still had to cough up several hunderd
$$ for the labor.

The head gasket issue is notorious, costly, and a much bigger
pain in the butt, as it concerns a vital part of the car- the engine!

MN