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Re: little tips for replacing a timing belt.
Subaru Subaru vehicles (alt.autos.subaru)
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#1
 
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Re: little tips for replacing a timing belt. -
10-28-2009
, 03:46 PM
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awesome! Did you get a new tensioner?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
#2
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On Oct 30, 5:20 am, weelliott <weelli... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: On Oct 29, 10:01 am, 1 Lucky Texan <alcky... (AT) swbell (DOT) net> wrote: On Oct 28, 7:29 pm, y_p_w <y_... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote: On Oct 28, 12:46 pm, weelliott <weelli... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: I did not get a new tensioner. I asked the parts guy at the subaru dealer if he thought I'd need it, and he said there is no need to replace it unless the old one is showing signs of wear. Part of the procedure for the belt change is to check the action of it, and I did that, and it checked fine. I found the reciept for the original T-belt change by the previous owner, and it wasn't replaced then either. So it has 124k miles on it, and is 11 years old and still going. There are some vehicles where a new tensioner pulley and water pump are typically replaced together. Most notable are Honda timing belts, which also drive the water pump. The general idea is that if either the water pump or tensioner pulley fails, it'll seize and cause the belt to break - leaving a mess. Since it's about 5 hours labor time to do the job, the additional labor is small to replace the water pump and pulley. I remember going to a dealership, getting a timing belt, water pump, and tensioner for maybe $130, plus a gallon of coolant. Then a shadetree mechanic charged maybe $100 to install all that. I'm not sure what's the worst that could happen with my WRX. I though the design was non-interference with the low compression ratio (which isn't a big deal with the turbo). I cheaped out on a belt change once on a Toyota, idler pulley seized and burned thru the belt about 13K after the change. While I was 200 miles from home. I will always put in new 'rotating' things (excpt for cams/crank of course)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Now you guys are scaring me. At least it is non-interference. So it wouldn't destroy the entire engine if it failed. It would be a royal pain in the butt though if it left me stranded. Oh well. I'll just tell myself I'm living on the edge over here. Some good advise. My 2 cents. Don't pull the radiator, plenty of room. Don't change the water pump unless it leaks, or the bearings feel wrong. Very few water pumps changed in the shop. Crank Bolt. Long breaker bar and 22 MM socket. put it on the crank bolt and tuck the breaker bar on the frame next to the battery- make sure your not going to hit the a/c lines. Bump the starter, then unscrew the bolt. Always change cam/crank seals Use a Subaru belt- seen aftermarket belts with the line one tooth off (gates even!) Spin and feel each pulley, the geared one seems to fail a lot IMO, darn things are expensive- I put all new ones in my car. ouch there are other tips, but these are the important ones. |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQhfcdQf1QA
Doesn't take long at all.
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