On Apr 21, 12:11*am, Carl 1 Lucky Texan <alcky... (AT) swbell (DOT) not> wrote:

Hmmm, very interesting. The term "delayed response" has me nodding my
head. When the ABS decides to kick in, the first thing that happens
is that the brake system pressure seems to drop like a rock. Pedal
heads towards the floor, and car stops slowing down, almost to the
point where it feels like i.t is actually speeding up. After a brief
moment (which could be the "delayed response,") the car starts to slow
down in an ABS-controlled manner. Somebody who didn't care much to
understand how stuff works would probably describe it as "delayed
response."

Mine is not a WRX, but rather an OBS. Same system? I wonder if I can
try this "alternate calibration." I'll mention it to the dealer see
if they have any clue. I've always felt the ABS kicked in
unreasonably early. Are newer systems better?

On Apr 21, 9:20*pm, Chico <chicobi... (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:
This is a long shot, but my ABS kept kicking in when I turned in one
direction with the brakes on. I forget which direction, but it doesn't
matter. The problem turned out to be a bad wheel bearing on the
outside rear wheel. The load on that wheel combined with the bad wheel
bearing would cause the wheel to kind of steer, which let the speed
ring get far enough away from the ABS wheel speed sensor, and that
wheel got cut brake pressure. Is it possible that you have something
affecting the sensors? Long shot, but just tossing stuff out there to
mull over.

Chicobiker <chicobiker (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> writes:

Mine feel like crap too. The pads rotors are aftermarket but
apparently high end.

Are yours aftermarket too?

Same deal--it feels so lousy I want to think there's a bubble in the
brake line but themechanic swears up and down it's been bled, burped,
and all that and the pads are just squishy.

--
Todd H.
2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4
Chicago, Illinois USA

Todd H. wrote:
The aftermarket pads (wagner) I put on my wife's Outback are noticeably
inferior to the original pads. I'm going back to OEM on her car - and
will soon need pads on my car - I'm 'probably' going with OEM. I MIGHT
consider EBC yellow.

Carl

On Apr 23, 7:27*pm, sub... (AT) toddh (DOT) net (Todd H.) wrote:

Yes, I did replace everything about a year ago. I hadn't thought of
that fact. I always read so much about sticking with stock pads, but
I wasn't that close to a dealer at the time. In the end, I had to run
to the dealer at the last minute cause I broke a caliper bolt and
could not find the right bolt anywhere locally. I hope I never have
to replace the rotors and drums again because the new ones I got don't
have the bolt holes to push out against the flange and un-seize
them ...

On Apr 17, 10:14*pm, Chicobiker <chicobi... (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:
I just ran across something that might be contributing to this.

Some replacement pads have the metal backing made too large, and the
pad hangs up in the slots the pad slides in.

If you have just one hung pad that bending or bowing even a tiny
amount when the brakes are applied, that would give you spongy brakes.

I just did rear pads and rotors, and had to be pretty forceful to get
the rear pads out, and I could have hammered the new ones in but
instead elected to trim the backing plates with the grinder- just
enough, and in just the right places.


Dave

I hammered pads in once on a volvo wagon. Big Mistake. They bound up
in the housing, and once I applied my brakes, they got stuck there.
Then they were stuck in the applied position. It was apparenlty not
enough to apply a significant braking force because I didn't notice
it. However, the pad heated up enough that I had smoke pouring off
that corner of my car. I noticed that and went to slow down to pull
over and my brake pedal hit the floor. Apparently I had boiled the
fluid. I got the car stopped and let it cool off, then I had brakes.
That was quite scary though.

This is at least my mechanic's idea of what happened. He also added on
that I should have used OEM pads. Since then I have always run the
ends of pads over a rough asphalt surface to grind off a little before
putting them in. That's how I get around his recommendation. It's
usually just a thick layer of paint that comes off, but I have never
had the problem again.

Bill