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Transmission problems
Subaru Subaru vehicles (alt.autos.subaru)
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Transmission problems -
10-15-2006
, 02:37 PM
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Dave: My factory manual doesn't list a #16 code. Make sure that you have the correct flash sequence. I will type what is in the manual. "A LONG SEGMENT (1.2 SECONDS ON) INDICATES A TEN AND A SHORT SEGMENT (.02 SECONDS ON) SIGNIFIES A ONE" So one long and 6 short will be a 16 code. Hope this makes more sense. To clear the TMC code "remove fuse # 4 for longer than one minute" |
light comes on with all the other instrument panel lights. When all the
lights go off a few seconds later, the AT light also goes off, then it
flashes quickly 16 times (probably "short segments", as your manual
describes), then turns off and stays off. Thanks again for the replies!
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I have a '96 Outback 2.5, automatic transmission, that has developed troubling symptoms in the last couple weeks: 1) AT Oil Temp light flashes for awhile when I turn the car on. 2) Difficulty shifting. The shifter is harder to move than usual, and there's a bit of a "clunk" sound going in and out of D or R. 3) Odd feel in reverse. It used to be that I could apply a little gas, take my foot off the pedal, and coast back out of my driveway in reverse. Now, as soon as I release the pedal in reverse, the car stops. I've checked all the fluid levels, and they're fine. The fluid colors are fine, according to my Hayes manual. The car has just over 100K miles, and had its full service at 90K. Clearly I need to get it into a mechanic, but I'd like to have an idea of what the problem/diagnosis might be before I take it in. Any guesses? Thanks, Dave |
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Hi Dave, I have the same year, model, with 190K km. Late Sept I started getting the same set of symptoms, flashing AT TEMP light, binding on turns, etc. I took the car into Subaru and they hooked up to the computer and the code came back with the following quote: Replace Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly, Transfer Clutch Plate Set, and re-seal transmission oil pan. Estimate $850 + tax (CDN), including labour I haven't had the work done yet, since they would have to order the parts, I need to find the money :-) and the service rep said I could still drive without doing any damage to the car. Basically, he said the valve is likely stuck or busted so the front to back AWD power ratio is 50-50, instead of the correct ratio (not sure what it is, but more power is usually on the front, like 60-40). If anyone else has a second opinion, or has found a solution without changing the value as Subaru estimated, please post. Dave N wrote: I have a '96 Outback 2.5, automatic transmission, that has developed troubling symptoms in the last couple weeks: 1) AT Oil Temp light flashes for awhile when I turn the car on. 2) Difficulty shifting. The shifter is harder to move than usual, and there's a bit of a "clunk" sound going in and out of D or R. 3) Odd feel in reverse. It used to be that I could apply a little gas, take my foot off the pedal, and coast back out of my driveway in reverse. Now, as soon as I release the pedal in reverse, the car stops. I've checked all the fluid levels, and they're fine. The fluid colors are fine, according to my Hayes manual. The car has just over 100K miles, and had its full service at 90K. Clearly I need to get it into a mechanic, but I'd like to have an idea of what the problem/diagnosis might be before I take it in. Any guesses? Thanks, Dave |
elsewhere)that repeated 'flushes' or 'drain refill' cycles of xmission
fluid are worth the effort. Seems to clean-up gumminess in many cases.
Of course, its a better money saving effort if you do the labor
yourself. And if the problem has persisted for some time, the clutch
plates themselves may need replacing anyway. it's a gamble.
Carl
--
to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)
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Lyons Net wrote: Hi Dave, I have the same year, model, with 190K km. Late Sept I started getting the same set of symptoms, flashing AT TEMP light, binding on turns, etc. I took the car into Subaru and they hooked up to the computer and the code came back with the following quote: Replace Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly, Transfer Clutch Plate Set, and re-seal transmission oil pan. Estimate $850 + tax (CDN), including labour I haven't had the work done yet, since they would have to order the parts, I need to find the money :-) and the service rep said I could still drive without doing any damage to the car. Basically, he said the valve is likely stuck or busted so the front to back AWD power ratio is 50-50, instead of the correct ratio (not sure what it is, but more power is usually on the front, like 60-40). If anyone else has a second opinion, or has found a solution without changing the value as Subaru estimated, please post. Dave N wrote: I have a '96 Outback 2.5, automatic transmission, that has developed troubling symptoms in the last couple weeks: 1) AT Oil Temp light flashes for awhile when I turn the car on. 2) Difficulty shifting. The shifter is harder to move than usual, and there's a bit of a "clunk" sound going in and out of D or R. 3) Odd feel in reverse. It used to be that I could apply a little gas, take my foot off the pedal, and coast back out of my driveway in reverse. Now, as soon as I release the pedal in reverse, the car stops. I've checked all the fluid levels, and they're fine. The fluid colors are fine, according to my Hayes manual. The car has just over 100K miles, and had its full service at 90K. Clearly I need to get it into a mechanic, but I'd like to have an idea of what the problem/diagnosis might be before I take it in. Any guesses? Thanks, Dave Yes, it is the opinion of quite few folks at www.ultimatesubaru.org (and elsewhere)that repeated 'flushes' or 'drain refill' cycles of xmission fluid are worth the effort. Seems to clean-up gumminess in many cases. Of course, its a better money saving effort if you do the labor yourself. And if the problem has persisted for some time, the clutch plates themselves may need replacing anyway. it's a gamble. Carl -- to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net) |
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I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997 Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle. |
fuse in and the problem goes away the flush and additive has a good chance
of working for you.
If installing the 2WD fuse has no effect it's either a bad C selenoid, a
stuck valve body, or a bad clutch.
The good news is that all the affected parts are in the last segment at the
rear of the transmission. If you're good with tools you can drop the
driveshaft and crack the case open without removing the transmission from
the car. The job is more difficult than an oil change but much easier than
fixing a blown head gasket. Personally I'd get a used trans from a salvage
yard and then swap the end instead of the whole unit.
Later,
Joe
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