Get this, truck will not idle once put into gear but when in park/neutral
idle is up so high the truck jumps into gear hard and then nearly stalls
out. Once you hit the gas, even slightly, the truck will take right off
until it's time to stop at a light or stop sign, which makes it nearly stall
again no matter how warm the engine is(gotta throw it in neutral to stay
running). I plugged in the bypass on the diagnostic and the "check engine"
light just repeatedly blinks 11 times one right after another, pauses, then
blinks 11 times again. Book says code 11 is a ECM but why would the thing
drive all day long once the gas is applied? It used to never stall out at a
stop but up until a couple days ago it has started to stall, so I cranked up
the idle with the air-screw and the throttle-stop screw but it didn't help
much, it now surges like crazy. Did moving either one of them mess something
else up? This thing has never idled smooth since I bought it but always ran
at a stop without shaking me out of the seat, unlike now. Could a fuel pump
do this? That's about all that hasn't been replaced on it as of now. Truck
has a completely new exhaust from front to back, new plugs/wires, etc and
still will not idle good. The "check engine" light doesn't come on except
when first started but then goes right out so it seems not to be whipping up
any faults, amazing considering the way it runs rough at an idle. This thing
is really starting to get annoying, especially with the auto tranny, at
least with a stick I could clutch the problem right out of it. Anyone else
have a similar problem or is this machine "unique"? Oh yeah, the stock,
in-dash temp gauge is bypassed and a mechanical aftermarket was installed,
weird thing is the truck only runs at 160 degrees but when warming up it can
hit 220 but then drop like a rock and never climb past 165-170 no matter how
hard I beat on it, which has been a lot lately Is this a normal Toyota
problem too?? It's been a good truck other than this, just keeps on
going...even when "broken"....180,000 miles and counting!

"Robbo" <robbo71 (AT) usadatanet (DOT) net> wrote

I found some different info for your code 11.

11 Switch signal - neutral start switch on (22R-E) or IDL point in
throttle position sensor is off during diagnostic check.

Sounds like you have a bad TPS or it may just need adjusting.


It used to never stall out at a
Yep, set them back to were they were. The throttle stop screw will change
the TPS setting, which would also cause the code 11.



This thing has never idled smooth since I bought it but always ran
Nope.

That's about all that hasn't been replaced on it as of now. Truck
What degree thermostat do you have? I believe it should be a 190 - 195. If
the thermostat is too cold the engine may not go into closed loop and this
may affect the idle as well. Also, how accurate is the aftermarket guage?


Is this a normal Toyota
Put all the adjustments you have fooled with back to were they should be
and adjust the TPS first. It's possible the TPS is bad but that should show
up when you try to adjust it.

Also, when was the last time the valves were adjusted. Improper valve
adjustment could also cause a poor idle.

Thanks for the advice! The valves haven't been adjusted in over 2 years and
I have driven the truck quite a lot since without many problems but who
knows? I did forget about one little tidbit while driving out-of-state a few
months ago. I was just outside of Boston and was running along about 75MPH
with everyone around me right on my bumper, so I floored it and as soon as I
hit 80(took awhile) there was a big puff of smoke(oil) and an instant power
loss but the truck never died. I pulled over, opened the hood and there was
oil all over the top of the engine, which I thought I had blown up. Anyway,
it was running really rough at that point but I checked the oil and it was
right on the full line. I had it changed the day before at a fast-lube joint
so I think they musta over-filled it since it was still full considering the
amount of oil that blasted out all over everything. I stood there wondering
if I could still drive it but it never died and still had good oil pressure
so I continued on all the way into New Hampshire and then back home to NY
the next day, ran fine and even smoothed itself out! I''ve been driving it
ever since having done nothing but put gas in it and it's been fine until
very recently but I wonder if I may have blew something out that is just
coming to a head now? I don't know I couldn't even tell from whereabouts
all the oil came out but it looked like the PCV valve area. Anyhow, it does
have a 195 thermostat in it now that's only about a year old. As far as the
neutral start switch, that was taken out and cleaned last year as the backup
lights wouldn't come on when put in reverse so it wouldn't pass inspection;
I did try starting the truck in neutral and oddly it will not crank at all
but fires right up in park...and the backup lights still work too, so maybe
it's just sticking inside again not allowing a neutral start. One thing I do
have to do every couple of weeks is clean the battery terminals, they get
corroded constantly causing a battery disconnect. The battery is only 2
years old($90 for it) but looks to be leaking along the top seam...for some
goofy reason. I'd hate to get rid of this truck if it's just an easy, but
elusive, fix however if this keeps up I may just have to off it. I'll try
out your suggestions and maybe I can get my buddy to re-adjust the
valves...hopefully with that I'll be up and running for another couple years
or so as I'd hate to have to go out and get another truck payment!