The tech manual says that brakes can be bled using a normal bleed
procedure of RR, LR, RF, LF. I'll be using either gravity bleed or a
one man hose w/check valve. If I still get a soft pedal is there a
way to bleed the ABS actuator? I did the first bleed on the RR and
found the bleeder screws are leaking around the threads when I open
them about 1/8 to 1/4. Can grease be applied at the threads to seal
without contaminating the brake fluid?

"edge" <thedge000 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

If you still get a soft pedal after you bleed the brakes in the order you
listed above, you need to go back and bleed in the same sequence, masking
sure that each caliper grips the rotor so that the rotor cannot be turned by
hand.

The ABS actuator has no effect on pedal feel when it is not operating so
don't mess with it.

I believe that the bleeder screws are tapered so some leaking around the
threads when they are opened is OK as long as they do not leak when screwed
shut. Do not apply any grease to the threads; the seeping brake fluid
should be sufficient.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

I am still getting a soft pedal after the bleed. Caliper grip on the
rotor was OK. Braking power is very good an starts near the top of
the pedal stroke, but pedal will go to 1 inch off the floor and is not
firm. This is not my car, but this does not sound normal. It sound
more like there is a master cylinder problem, if I had to change it
out do I need to purge the ABS or other part of the system. If so,
how - do I need a scan tool?

"edge" <thedge000 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote



I am still getting a soft pedal after the bleed. Caliper grip on the
rotor was OK. Braking power is very good an starts near the top of
the pedal stroke, but pedal will go to 1 inch off the floor and is not
firm. This is not my car, but this does not sound normal. It sound
more like there is a master cylinder problem, if I had to change it
out do I need to purge the ABS or other part of the system. If so,
how - do I need a scan tool?

************
If you have to replace the master cylinder, it is not necessary to purge the
ABS but you will have to re-bleed the system.

As far as I know, the master cylinders on those vehicles are not prone to
failure or problems so that would be low on my list of suspects,

The next step is to remove each caliper and make sure that the slide pins
and the sleeves for the pins in and out freely to the limit of the rubber
boots. The symptoms you are describing could be caused by a stuck caliper
slide pin or sleeve.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)