This is a short 5-sec .wmv video at the exhaust pipe. Warm engine at
idle, mid-high 80's outside.

I've been losing water and don't see where it's going. Wondering if
I've got a head gasket issue. The engine was just rebuilt a couple of
years ago, dangit.

Thanks for all input.

Video is 646 kb

http://home.mpinet.net/~disneyvid2/exhaust.wmv

Thought I'd add it's an 89 Cressida, straight 6.

On Thu, 17 May 2007 13:59:34 -0700, Doc wrote:

Oh...no...

Actually, this looks normal. How long had the car been running?

Also, how much coolant are you losing, and are you adding coolant through
the bottle? When was the last time you had the cooling system
flushed/filled?

Has the HG ever been replaced, how many miles on the car total?

This car has a 7M-GE engine, same as the Supras. These engines are
notorious for blowing head gaskets, but that doesn't mean you have to
worry a whole lot.

Is there water in the oil, or oil in the water? Water in the oil will look
like a milkshake. I liken it to a Zero bar, if you know what that is.

I would have a good look at the cooling system. When was the last time you
had the plugs changed? A good tune-up means removing a LOT of the top of
the engine, and getting to the head isn't much of a stretch after that. I
would try to find a mechanic who is FAMILIAR with this engine have a look,
and when you do a tune up have the head bolts torqued to ~70 ft/lbs.
Someone who knows this engine will know.

You can also go to http://www.supras.com, click on the link to SOGI, sign
up and then post your question and a link to the video via e-mail to the
members. There are a LOT of knowledgable people there, and although you
have a Cressida, underneath it's pretty much the same as a Supra.

Good luck!

On May 17, 6:15 pm, Vash The Stampede <Tri... (AT) 2AM (DOT) cn> wrote:
It had been turned on and off a few times, run a couple miles down the
road to the store earlier. Sat for a while, then ran it maybe 15 mins
before taking this video.



Both through the bottle and in the radiator, since I've been keeping a
close eye on the level lately.


Replaced the radiator & thermostat maybe 3 - 4 months ago, the fan
clutch maybe 1 - 2 months ago.


The engine had a total rebuild around 30k miles ago at a machine shop
with a good local rep. I pulled the engine and brought it to them, I
saw the engine apart on the stand, the head on the bench, he gave me
the old pistons/bearings, so there's no question as to whether the
work was done.




Saw none of the symptoms you mention, which I looked at when first
becoming concerned about the head gasket. The water has to be going
*somewhere*. It seems like every couple of days, the level goes from
topped off at the filler neck to having the core tubes explosed. The
other thing is the engine has been running a bit rough at start up
recently.


I appreciate the tips.

Further developments, the temp guage has been fluctuating up and down.
It actually did this a few months ago which is when I replaced the
radiator, thermostat and shortly after that the fan clutch when the
previous two measures didn't solve what appeared to be an overheat
issue.

Things seemed to be doing okay until I noticed it starting to creep up
to hot again. I checked the coolant, saw it was low. Filled it, which
seemed to solve the problem.

But now it's gotten worse. The last several days it would creep up to
hot, and then dive back to normal, all within the space of a cuople of
miles after startup. Today I replaced the water temp sensor to see if
that was okay, it not only kept doing it, but it got worse. The temp
guage finally went all the way to the top, without coming back down, I
pulled it over and got it towed in, not knowing if I'm dealing with a
genuine overheat issue or something else.

It's losing water and it's overheating despite a new radiator, new
thermostat, new fan clutch, full radiator and now a new temp sensor,
plus a recent engine rebuild. The water pump seems okay, no wobble in
the shaft. I'm stumped, and now feel like I can't drive the car until
I get to the heart of the problem.

Doc wrote:
Personally given the air temperature, I think that it is way to much
steam to be condensation if the engine is warmed up as you say. Also is
the sound on that clip accurate? it like it's missing a cylinder if it is.

How was the engine rebuilt? was it a full strip down or a fix what's
broken job?

As for a reason for the coolant loss. Is there any water in the oil or
vice-versa. If the oil and water are not meeting then a coolant loss
with that much vapour at the exhaust still could be a head gasket or it
could be a cracked head.

But I would cover all of my bases and get the system pressure tested and
a UV dye put in it. That way if it's leaking you can see it easier, and
that much vapour could be normal for you car.

On May 17, 7:47 pm, Nick Bourne <"nabourne at tpg.com.au"> wrote:


Part of the noisiness is a loose exhaust, the aftermarket hangers on
the muffler are different than the stock one, and there's some slop
that I need to deal with, but yes, there is a definite miss, more
apparent at certain times than others. Previously, the engine was
running smooth. It's probably overdue for a tune up but again, I'm
suspicious of the head gasket. Haven't done a cylinder pressure test
yet.



Full strip down. Bored, new pistons, bearings, seals, valve job. He
reused the old camshafts. The shop was family-owned, had been in the
area for decades and I never heard anything but good feedback about
them.



Not that I can tell.



10-4, I appreciate the input.

Doc wrote:
I didn't watch the video, but here's a question for you - was the head
retorqued after the rebuild?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On May 17, 10:16 pm, Nate Nagel <njna... (AT) roosters (DOT) net> wrote:

No.

Doc wrote:

Doc wrote:
Also as another thought, I have seen another Toyota that had similar
symptoms that cracked the alloy head.
If you get the head work done make sure they check it very carefully as
the crack I saw went into intake.
When you put it back together get a after market metal gasket and a head
stud kit (about $200 and $150 respectively) and you should never have
any gasket problems after that.