I found that despite all the hoopla about using the various
internet/fax/phone methods for buying a car that, at least for me,
nothing beat actually going into the dealership and walking out when
they refuse to hit your price.

It's funny, but when I was searching for my Camry LE (four-speed), all
dealerships, except one quoted ME $18,200 -- and that was taking into
account the $1,000 rebate that Toyota was offering at the time....so
the "real" selling price was $19,200. I did several combos of e-mail,
phone and fax contacts, depending on the dealers, ranging from a number
of people who have various titles such as "internet sales manager,"
fleet sales manager, etc.

I finally went into my two local dealerships IN PERSON, both within 20
miles, told them I would pay no more than $17,400 BEFORE rebate. They
both flatly refused, but when I got home later that day, I had messages
on my answering from both dealers agreeing to my price....

The 18,200 includes the current $500 rebate and
the doc fee.

I suppose the low-priced dealership coming in at
$18,200 was "lying" when they said over the phone
that they weren't making any money selling the
'06 Camry LE automatic at 18,200.

I think 18,200 is a good price because 2 dealerships
didn't even give me a quote, saying they couldn't
match 18,200 and so wouldn't even provide a quote.

I think the 18,200 was a no-haggle price. I think
it's a good price because
CarMax.com's Laurel, Maryland Toyota dealership also
has a no-haggle price of about 18,200 on the same car.

CarMax.com has no-haggle pricing, but I think it's
important to choose the right CarMax because it looks
like the Chicago CarMax.com dealership is more expensive
than the Laurel, Maryland CarMax (Baltimore/D.C. area).

Both CarMax's have no-haggle pricing, but one prices
lower than the other.

After I read your post I went to carmax.com to check what is available
in Chicago area and I found something strange: several camry LE
cars, same model number prices with different price 18,338-19167.
All of them seem to list THE SAME optional equipment (cars with
sunroof listed for much more). What would be the reason for the
different price ? Is this just different color ?

Built_Well wrote:
What does kbb.com say the invoice price is for your configuration?
Make the dealers break down their prices (details!) so you can
see how they arrive at the bottom line. This way, for example,
there's no doubt about what's happening with any rebates.
And they can't surprise/trick you later by saying that a certain
cost was not included in their earlier quote.


Ray O wrote:
On a purchase transaction of a vehicle (not maintenance/service
of the vehicle), why are these important? There's a bottom line,
drive out price.

(I agree they're important for maintenance/service.)

Gee guy, 18.2 to 18.8, that's not much play. Let's keep it simple. Do you
need a car today? A certain color? Are you patient and like to shop? Get
a price from at least two buying services, and not too far from home.

When you call, have you considered asking for the fleet rep and see what
they can do? You tie up a retail sales guy or gal, and they need their
piece of the action. Don't assume a phone call will be accurate. Business
happens face to face.

Got my hard to find truck at Capital Toyota Salem, Or in July 04. Toyota
Los Angeles zone had zero and were getting zero. Found one at Toyota San
Francisco, gave a $1000 deposit and was ready to buy. Go to get the car,
and the price increased $1000. Toyota of downtown San Francisco was real
sorry and gave me my deposit back. I was not mad. I did not get excited.
I know the game. I made my move (deposit), and had to wait for their next
counter move (price increase). My next move was to buy or keep looking.
When you have a phone or two, a notebook with wireless, maybe a portable
printer, but most of all TIME, you take your money back and start dialing.

Extras: I wanted the factory alarm. Got bids from $300 to $1000, and yes I
have auto door locks. Capital Toyota was the highest, and why not. It
would have been convenient.

You can save a bit if you are willing to do your homework, and are willing
and able to travel. But the more you ask for, the better the dealer can get
that extra $500 out of you. Dealers play this game every day, and you
don't. Your odds of winning are slim. Even if you are extra careful, one
drop of the guard, and they get that little extra. It's their job. It's
how they feed their family.

So, how bad do you want to play?

"Built_Well" <bw (AT) bbbb (DOT) com> wrote

I'll say $17,400 is about right with the hidden rebates and the drive
for market share and new 07's coming out, the current generation of
Camrys is pretty cheap these days.

"Built_Well" <bw (AT) bbbb (DOT) com> wrote

so seems the doc fee wiped canceled the rebate and you are back at near
invoice

in my area rebate is $750 for '06 and $1500 for '05

well according to car buyers secret 18,200 provides dealer around %5 profit
margin which is a fair deal as they need to make money and they they usually
minimally operate around %2-3 which would come out to about 17,900 so a
pretty good fair deal

the actual cost to dealer for the car is about 17,384 maybe less

good luck with car

"Wolfgang" <NOwolfgang_dieterSPAM (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote

Processing of what ? :-)

Rob B. wrote:

Thank you for all your helpful advice.

In my Toyota non-distributorship region, Edmunds.com
shows only a $500 rebate on the '06 Camry and no
rebate on the '05 Camry.

"processing" other name for taking your $ as extra profit for them.
Supposedly cover office expense and other expenses of doing business. Yup
big scam --- as bad as house closing junk fees! Some have nerve to add in
cost of regional advertising too and even "hold back" when they get car from
another dealer for you.

"Pszemol" <Pszemol (AT) PolBox (DOT) com> wrote