I had a problem with the starter/ignition relay switch usually only
during colder weather. I would have to turn the key several times
before it would crank over. Now theres nothing, lights come on but
turning the key does nothing at all. Not even a click. Theres 4 relay
switches under the dash on the left panel, I believe 3 are blue and 1
is some other color. I cant find any docs or read the diagrams well
enough that tell me which one the relay switch is. Anyone here know?
Here is a wiring diagram:
http://opc.mr2oc.com/online_parts_ca...CorollaFWD.pdf

Also, if I wanted to bypass the ignition switch, mainly because the car
isnt worth buying a new switch for, I believe theres a clutch start
switch in the clutch pedal which is a grey-green wire and a blue-orange
wire. So if I run a wire from whichever the "on" is to a pushbutton,
that should take care of the relay problem. Anyone know which one the
on wire is?

"spongehead" <hgoodale_msp (AT) msn (DOT) com> wrote

The starter relay is usually located in the engine compartment. It is
probably mounted on the starter.

Check the contacts on the starter relay for wear. If they are worn, look
for replacement contacts at an auto parts store.
problem. The 2 are not related. No offense, but you should not be
tinkering with or trying to modify the electrical components in your car if
you don't know the difference between a relay and a switch or the function
of a relay. If you try to bypass a relay, you'll melt the low current
wires.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

No offense taken. The car belonged to my uncle who is an electrical
engineer and has worked on many electronic things for 30 years. He had
taken out the ignition switch or relay out of the vehicle to prevent
his daughter from driving off with it. Since than that big blue fuse
looking thing under the dash has caused him problems. Using
multimeters and other electronic gadgets he has detemined that is the
problem. This is a direct quote from him:
"According to this, the relay coils connect to the clutch cutoff
switch. So, that might be an easier place to connect a wire. If you
can get to that switch that's on the clutch pedal somewhere, run a wire
from the side of the switch that's ON when the pedal is in, to the
pushbutton."

Good luck....

"spongehead" <hgoodale_msp (AT) msn (DOT) com> wrote

I doubt your uncle removed the ignition switch. It is way too difficult to
casually remove and replace.


This is a direct quote from him:
Your uncle's solution to prevent his daughter from driving off with the car
was obviously a poor one if it caused ongoing problems.

Do you actually know that the start position on the ignition switch is bad
or is someone just guessing? Ignition switches rarely fail in Toyotas.

A more common cause, like I said previously, is worn contacts on the starter
relay. Another probable cause is a poor connection to whatever relay or
component your uncle was removing and replacing. Those components are not
designed to be routinely removed and replaced and don't have strain relief
for that.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

I was actually with him when he did this. Had to get a wheel puller
and was definately a difficult task. With a multimeter he discovered
that was the problem. So, instead of replacing that, it may be easier
to by-pass it.
Im sure at the time it wasnt his intention to harm the vehicles
electronics.

I am guessing, but my uncle is quite sure.
If it was the starter relay, wouldnt there be a clicking noise when the
key is turned? I remember on my old Mustang, I had to replace the
starter solenoid (maybe not the same thing in a newer car) all the
time. All it would do is click.

In any case, the car is now starting again. As a test, I took of the
starter relay under the dash and replaced it. The car had the same
problem. So now what I believe I have to do, is run a switch from the
starter relay so that when the ignition fails, I can hit the switch
which will push the contact in the starter relay and start the car.

"spongehead" <hgoodale_msp (AT) msn (DOT) com> wrote

You're saying that your uncle got out a wheel puller and removed the
ignition switch every time he got in and out of the car just so his daughter
wouldn't take it for a ride? No offense to your uncle, but if he pulled the
ignition switch every time he got in and out of the car just so his daughter
wouldn't take it for a ride, he has no business working on cars. Removing
the ignition switch actually makes it easier to steal. That is like
removing the lock from your front door so nobody will pick it or jimmy it
open. He may have removed the lock to check it but if he was removing it
and replacing it or some other component to keep someone from taking if for
a ride, the car is probably ruined and will be an electronic nightmare to
diagnose in the future.
If he is indeed an engineer, it would be obvious that whatever component
your uncle was removing and replacing was not designed for that purpose,
with proper retention, strain relief, and removal and replacement cycles.

The ignition switch is probably bad because your uncle used the wheel puller
on it. That is the wrong tool to use, like opening a window with a hammer -
it only works once. Are you sure you aren't a very clever troll? No real
engineer is stupid enough to use a wheel puller on a starter switch unless
he was a car theif who didn't care if he ruined the switch.

A bad starter relay will not necessarily make a clicking noise.

starter relay plugs in because all the connections and soldered joints in
the JB are probably ruined from the plugging and un-plugging or better yet,
get rid of the car because it is probably a fire trap.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

Dude, you seriously need to read more carefully. The wheel puller was
used to take off the steering wheel to get to the ignition switch for
troubleshooting after trying to start the car. I really shouldnt have
to explain all this to just answer my question about how to bypass the
switch in question.
My uncle removed the starter relay only to prevent the daughter from
driving which at this point had no bearing on the ignition switch. He
did not plug it in and unplug it all the time. It was removed once.
My uncle has his own car. It just so happened that the ignition switch
went bad during the time when the car was not in use. So maybe when
the daughter was away not being able to drive the car, a little mouse
or bug got into the steering column and ate a wire causing it to ground
out occasionally.
You dont know my uncle in any way shape or form, so please dont accuse
him of being stupid.

"spongehead" <hgoodale_msp (AT) msn (DOT) com> wrote

I did read carefully.

I had posted:
You did not mention that he had to use the wheel puller to remove the
steering wheel and implied that he used the wheel puller to pull the
ignition switch. The subject of the sentence immediately preceeding the
mention of the wheel puller was the switch and since you did not name a new
subject, the implication is that the subject is still the switch.

that he used the wheel puller to pull the ignition switch, which would have
been a stupid move.

As far as the ignition switch goes, if the insulation on the wiring to the
switch is damaged by rodents, bugs, or whatever, the best course of action
would be to use some silicone tape or shrink tubing to repair the
insulation. By the way, if a live wire is being grounded, you should be
popping a circuit breaker or a fuse. Is that happening? If the ignition
switch itself is damaged or bad, replacing the switch is probably easier
than trying to bypass it. You can save the lock cylinder and install it in
the replacement switch so you don't have an odd key.

If you do want to bypass the ignition switch, you would have to identify the
circuit that is closed when the switch is turned to the start position,
separate those wires from the connector to the switch, and install a
momentary contact switch rated for the amperage flowing through the circuit
in series with that circuit. This approach allows you to continue to use
the key to turn the ignition on and off and lock the steering column.
Running the wires from the clutch safety switch or neutral safety switch
(depending on your transmission) will not engage the starter.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

I got a multi meter and ran a wire from the 12v side of the starter
relay to a pushbutton and than found an empty fuse slot which there was
12v and ran a wire from there to the pushbutton. When key is in the
run position and I hit the button, the car starts.