We have Haynes and Chilton manuals for a 1995 Jetta 4-cyl, but not the
factory manual or a Bentley (if they do VWs). The books we have don't
tell us how to test the heated MAF, but instead have useless test
procedures for the vane-sytle and piston airflow sensors.

Can some kind sould tell me how to test this part before we shell out
for a new one on spec? We have a 2113 MIL and know that the distributor
Hall sensor is good. (We had a spare distributor, as it happens.)
Also, if there's some other cause for a 2113 than these two parts, it
would be good to know what else to check.

Thanks,

JRE

what does it say 2113 fault is?


"JRE" <nothing (AT) nowhere (DOT) com> wrote

On Jan 28, 9:21 pm, JRE <noth... (AT) nowhere (DOT) com> wrote:

Back in the day when I last tested these things (80s cars), the test
was to determine continuity across the pins for the platinum wire, as
that is the most common failure... the wire breaks. If you can find
those pins, you should get relatively low resistance (a few ohms)
across them assuming the wire is good. Or infinite resistance if the
wire is bad.

Which pins are they? Haven't a clue. Somebody here who knows which
might be able to point them out to you.

On the other hand, if no combination of two pins gives you very low
resistance (with the part out of the vehicle to avoid false readings
to ground), then you have a pretty good idea that something is bad.
and if you go to the dealer/parts-supply and do the same test before
you shell out the $$ and DO get two pins with low resistance... now
you have your answer.

The above is not to say that in the last 20 years the technology has
not changed such that the above test is useless. So DO NOT work from a
single data-point, but only if a known-good part tests differently
from your part.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA