I have a 1980 rabbit convertable. I just changed the alternator but is
still only charging at 12 volts. Does this car have a regulator? It
doesn't seem to have a ground wire either. Is that a problem.

awronka (AT) hotmail (DOT) com wrote:
measure voltage at the alt. with your Fluke. The regulator is integral
to the alternator. A lot of times there's enough voltage drop that you
can read 12V at the dash gauge and still be getting the correct 13.7 at
the back of the alternator. Now what is a problem is if you aren't
getting 13.7 at the battery - clean your cables if you have correct
voltage at the alt. but not the batt. replace if necessary. also check
all ground points for corrosion and clean as necessary. Finally I think
13.7 is too low, I'd like to see at least 14V but that is the Bosch
spec. You can "hotrod" your alt. a little by getting a Transpo brand
regulator with adjustable voltage setpoint, I thin kthey come set around
14.1V which is a nice compromise between high voltage to make everything
work well and not overcharging the battery.

good luck,

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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Yes I believe the 80 Rabbit alternators are basically insulated from
directly contacting the metal and getting a good ground. I still have some
of those bushing kits too! lol
There is usually some thick wiring to ground the alternators to the block or
a metal bracket.
And especially if the Rabbit has stock A/C.

I would add a ground to that alternator and check the voltage.
If it still charges at a low level check the wiring plug to the alternator.
Also there are some auto part stores that will check your alternator for
free! ;-)

BTW Is this a Motorola or a Bosch alternator? Both should have an internal
regulator so it should come with the alternator.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)


<awronka (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

So i should have a wire ground? Currently it only has the harness
plugged in. The alternator is a brand new motorola. How do i check the
voltage at the back of the alternator. Does the fact that I need to
replace the fuse box have any bearing on this problem. The fuse box is
currently rusted to pieces and am awating a replacement.

does the alt/battery light on the dash come on with key on? Has to work or
the alt will not put out.


<awronka (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

The alternator has a rather substantial ground strap that is bolted to
the engine which attaches to the alternator which has a bolt on one of
the studs on the alternator. It is also a good idea to ground it at a
second point, There is a picture of the grounding stud on the
alternator at:
http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/t...ternator09.JPG

Another link re secondary grounding point --


http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...Ground-Alt.jpg

Ok I grounded the alternator, Changed the fuse box. However I now have
a new problem. With the change of fuse box I got many of the
essentials back, rear lights, brake lights, dome lights, windshield
wipers working when they are supposed to. All nice.


But I now the car wont start. The fuel pump does not come on.However
it does come on if I connect a wire near the box to one of the fuses.
Apperently the pump had been jury rigged by some previous owner. This
car has only 80,000 miles on it so I want it running well. Any tips to
my new problem. Things i should look at. The car does have spark. It
actually started acouple times after the fuse box change but has know
stopped as it seems to be starved for fuel.. Any diagrams i could look
at just incase i missed a wire here or there. The fuse box was
definately the same model number.

awronka (AT) hotmail (DOT) com wrote:
Was the wire bypassing the FP relay? They're known to fail.

good luck

nate

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Where is the Fuel pump relay? The fuel pump was not working when I
restarted the car after changing the fuse box. Would running the
engine out of fuel cause a problem and if so how do I fix it.