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Engine dies shortly after a jump start
Volkswagen Golf, Jetta, Corrado, Vanagon, new models, etc. (rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled)
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#11
 
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Re: Engine dies shortly after a jump start -
12-21-2006
, 07:19 PM
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Papa wrote: I just checked my voltmeter readouts again, with the battery connected to the car. With the engine off and nothing turned on my voltmeter read about 11.5 volts. With the engine running at 1500 RPM and nothing turned on my voltmeter read about 11.0 volts. Turning on an item such as the parking lights caused a slight lowering of the voltage, regardless of the RPM. Mpffff.... It really sounds like either your voltage regulator or alternator has crapped out. That was my immediate thought based on your statement that it would not run _at all_ unless it was still jumped or the battery was recharged. In any case, the cure is the same... new/rebuilt alternator with new regulator. And if the existing battery is 'older', a couple of deep discharges will pretty much kill it as well, so you may be in need of a complete transplant, battery & alternator. Good luck with it. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA |
could a dead short cause the same symptoms? Thanks.
#12
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Mpffff.... It really sounds like either your voltage regulator or alternator has crapped out. That was my immediate thought based on your statement that it would not run _at all_ unless it was still jumped or the battery was recharged. In any case, the cure is the same... new/rebuilt alternator with new regulator. And if the existing battery is 'older', a couple of deep discharges will pretty much kill it as well, so you may be in need of a complete transplant, battery & alternator. |
are usually replaceable separate from the alternator (and are
cheaper...about $40 or less for the brush/regulator). Before you buy an
alternator, pull the brush/regulator out and check the length of the brushes
against the specs in the bentley. if they're below minimum spec, just
replace the brush/voltage regulator only. Also, they are spring-loaded (as
they wear, a spring pushes them out) and make sure they are not just gummed
up and "stuck". That can happen...a diesel Eurovan driver on another list
had that problem recently. The brush/regulator usually just unbolts from
the back of the alternator via a couple of screws. It's a 5-minute thing to
check/change it.
#13
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pfjw (AT) aol (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1166729130.203615.280340 (AT) 80g2000cwy (DOT) googlegroups.com... Mpffff.... It really sounds like either your voltage regulator or alternator has crapped out. That was my immediate thought based on your statement that it would not run _at all_ unless it was still jumped or the battery was recharged. In any case, the cure is the same... new/rebuilt alternator with new regulator. And if the existing battery is 'older', a couple of deep discharges will pretty much kill it as well, so you may be in need of a complete transplant, battery & alternator. On the alternator, the brush/voltage regulator are usually one assembly and are usually replaceable separate from the alternator (and are cheaper...about $40 or less for the brush/regulator). Before you buy an alternator, pull the brush/regulator out and check the length of the brushes against the specs in the bentley. if they're below minimum spec, just replace the brush/voltage regulator only. Also, they are spring-loaded (as they wear, a spring pushes them out) and make sure they are not just gummed up and "stuck". That can happen...a diesel Eurovan driver on another list had that problem recently. The brush/regulator usually just unbolts from the back of the alternator via a couple of screws. It's a 5-minute thing to check/change it. Excellent suggestion, Matt. I found several in the $20 to $45 range on the |
As it turned out, the fault was due to the voltage regulator. A couple of
small 18 gage wires were pulled loose (probably because of my big hands
while I was installing new headlight wiring in tight spaces). These 2 wires
(one was brown so it must be a ground) are located at the end of the
alternator opposite the pulley. Not sure what they are for, but I assume
they are part of the regulator circuitry.
After reconnecting these 2 wires, the VDO voltage gage started showing
voltage levels above 12 volts with the engine running and all lights on.
Before reattaching these wires the best I could get was 11 volts with the
engine running and just one set of lights on. I'll do a more precise
measurement tomorrow.
I think I'll get a new voltage regulator anyway, since the cost is low and
my existing one is very old and probably has nearly worn out brushes.
Thanks to both of you, Matt and Peter. Very much appreciated.
#14
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"Matt B." <noway (AT) hellno (DOT) com> wrote in message news:kBHih.157892$HO4.135273 (AT) newsfe06 (DOT) phx... pfjw (AT) aol (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1166729130.203615.280340 (AT) 80g2000cwy (DOT) googlegroups.com... Mpffff.... It really sounds like either your voltage regulator or alternator has crapped out. That was my immediate thought based on your statement that it would not run _at all_ unless it was still jumped or the battery was recharged. In any case, the cure is the same... new/rebuilt alternator with new regulator. And if the existing battery is 'older', a couple of deep discharges will pretty much kill it as well, so you may be in need of a complete transplant, battery & alternator. On the alternator, the brush/voltage regulator are usually one assembly and are usually replaceable separate from the alternator (and are cheaper...about $40 or less for the brush/regulator). Before you buy an alternator, pull the brush/regulator out and check the length of the brushes against the specs in the bentley. if they're below minimum spec, just replace the brush/voltage regulator only. Also, they are spring-loaded (as they wear, a spring pushes them out) and make sure they are not just gummed up and "stuck". That can happen...a diesel Eurovan driver on another list had that problem recently. The brush/regulator usually just unbolts from the back of the alternator via a couple of screws. It's a 5-minute thing to check/change it. Excellent suggestion, Matt. I found several in the $20 to $45 range on the internet. As it turned out, the fault was due to the voltage regulator. A couple of small 18 gage wires were pulled loose (probably because of my big hands while I was installing new headlight wiring in tight spaces). These 2 wires (one was brown so it must be a ground) are located at the end of the alternator opposite the pulley. Not sure what they are for, but I assume they are part of the regulator circuitry. After reconnecting these 2 wires, the VDO voltage gage started showing voltage levels above 12 volts with the engine running and all lights on. Before reattaching these wires the best I could get was 11 volts with the engine running and just one set of lights on. I'll do a more precise measurement tomorrow. I think I'll get a new voltage regulator anyway, since the cost is low and my existing one is very old and probably has nearly worn out brushes. Thanks to both of you, Matt and Peter. Very much appreciated. If your meter reading of 11.7 is correct - after an all night charge |
replacement of the brushes is simple and ususally can be done
without removing the alt. from it's mounts.
#15
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#16
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Final tests after Voltage Regulator wiring repair: |
Congrats!
Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA
#17
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Papa wrote: Final tests after Voltage Regulator wiring repair: Fixed then! Congrats! Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Thanks. All of you helped me resolve it quickly. This is a great forum!! |
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