So, I'm in the process of replacing my pass. wheel bearing and tierod
end. The tierod is no problem. I'm trying to get the axel out of the
steering knuckle. I have disconnected the tirerod end, strut, and the
ball joint from the suspension arm. I removed the 30mm nut off the
end as well. I thought at this point the axel should just slide
through the bearing. It's not. I tried using an 8 inch gear puller
as well. No luck. Am I missing a set screw or something. I don't
have a manual. Anyone with this model Passat realizes that a manual
doesn't exist...

Additionally, while messing around and looking at the axel, I noticed
my inner CV boot was ripped to shreds. I just started hearing a thump
every once in a while, so I figure that joint ain't long for this
world. I'm planning on replacing the whole shaft now (reman. for
$65). Any tips or things that I have to look out for
diconnecting/connecting the inner CV joint? I still have to get the
axel out of the steering knucle.
What a weekend project.

Thanks in advance.
Mike.
<< Problems can't be solved at the same level of awareness that
created them... " - Albert Einstien>>

Obviously he didn't have a 93 Passat GLX...

William Maslin wrote:

build a press to remove and replace the wheel bearings. As far as the
axle coming out of the spline. I read some place that they used to use
loctite on them. An acetylene torch will take care of the locktite.

John

"John A. Stephens" <winterbourn (AT) direcway (DOT) com> wrote

Thanks for oll the info. The axel did seems to have Loctite on it. I
just used a little more 'persuasion' with an 8 inch gear puller and
the axel came out. I had a friend press out the bearing. The inner
race did get stuck on the hub like you meantioned. I think he used a
hand grinder to get it off. One little scuff mark, not bad. The
bearing pressed on fine. Just hooked everything back up with new
tierod end, got an alignment. All done.

Again. I'd like to thank everyone for the information and help.

Mike

Next time, buy the bearing separator for $10-$20 and you'll
be able to get the inner race off more easily. (Or just convince
your friend with the press that this is a tool he needs... )

The tool I'm referring to has a sharp edge to fit between the inner
race and the hub. You then put it in the press with the outside
edge of the hub down, all supported by the bearing separator, then
press the hub out from inside the tool. This takes 1 min to line up
on the press and 30 seconds or so to do, compared to the several
your friend must have spent trying to grind it off w/o destroying the
hub.

Harbor freight, JC Whitney and probably lots of other places that
sell tools have them, although it's not something a chain auto parts
store would carry, in my experience. If you're chummy with the
parts counter guys at a store that has a machine shop they may let
you press it yourself, do it for you for free or for a small gratuity.
Many places will charge $10 to do it, though.

In article <1831c622.0402090610.13eed6ac (AT) posting (DOT) google.com>,
Mike Smith <Michael_Smith (AT) FarmFamily (DOT) com> wrote: