Okay, you folks gave me some good advice about how to remove the crankshaft
sprocket on my GTI. Now I'm looking at the intermediate shaft sprocket and
wondering about the best technique to keep it from spinning while breaking
the nut. Unlike the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket, there doesn't
seem to be an obvious place to wedge a pin, screwdriver, block of wood,
etc., to react the load. Has anyone developed a good technique for this?
TIA.

--
Kent
1987 VW GTI 8V, original owner, 221,500+ miles

The intermediate sprocket bolt is out after some creative wedging. Now I'm
frustrated that I can't remove the sprocket from the shaft! I followed the
instructions in my manual that said to loosen the bolt a bit and then tap
the sprocket with a soft-faced hammer to loosen. I've tapped as hard as I'm
comfortable, and the sprocket still won't budge. For some reason it seems to
be seized on the shaft. There's not much clearance for access, but I think
I'm going to have to rent a small low-profile puller to get this sprocket
off. Anyone else ever have this problem?

--
Kent
1987 VW GTI 8V, original owner, 221,500+ miles

"Kent" <immortala2 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

The intermediate shaft sprocket finally came off with some penetrant and a
small two-arm puller (rented of course). Turns out there was a significant
amount of corrosion between the sprocket and the shaft. The camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets slipped right off once the bolt was removed, so I'm not
sure why the intermediate sprocket was the only one corroded. Any ideas? All
the sprockets will be reinstalled with antisieze, so I don't have to deal
with the corrosion again.

On to seal replacement...

--
Kent
1987 VW GTI 8V, original owner, 221,500+ miles

"Kent" <immortala2 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

It is not designed to be assembled with antiseize or grease. Oft times
torque values are for dry assembly. If you use the toque value for a
dry assembly things may break with a lubed assembly. Also think about
the posibility that the antisieze might allow things to wallow about
and cause a loose fitting.

"Kent" <immortala2 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:


Jim B.

I hear you about wet versus dry torque values and the possible impact on
bolt preload, but I never intended to use anti-seize on the threads of the
bolt that holds the sprocket in place, just a very thin film on the faying
surfaces of the shaft and sprocket. This is where the corrosion formed that
locked the sprocket on the shaft. The bolt came out no problem, but I had to
use penetrant and a gear puller to break the corrosion and remove the
sprocket. This was not the case when I removed the camshaft and crankshaft
sprockets. Since the sprocket is designed as a tight slip fit and any
relative rotational motion between the shaft and sprocket is constrained by
the woodruff key, I don't think the anti-seize will be a problem in this
location. Am I missing an obvious gotcha here?

I've been scratching my head a bit about why the corrosion formed on the
intermediate shaft sprocket and not on the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket.
I have two theories that are possibly related. The first is that the
location of the intermediate shaft and the fact that it is not completely
covered by the timing belt cover allows water to more easily work its way
between the shaft and sprocket. The water, of course, then provides the
electrolyte for galvanic corrosion. A related theory is that the metallurgy
of the intermediate shaft and sprocket is sufficiently different from that
of the crankshaft and camshaft that a stronger galvanic couple is created at
this location. How's that for mental masturbation?

--
Kent
1987 VW GTI 8V, original owner, 221,500+ miles


<jimbehning (AT) doesthisblockporkmindspring (DOT) com> wrote