I am looking at a 1987 Jetta Deluxe Diesel 2 door that a guy down the
street is considering selling. Runs good, looks fair, 1.8L 5 speed, 210,000
miles. A/C does not work, windows won't roll up or down, and fan switch
isn't working. Also, for some reason the wipers run constantly??
However, he tells me this car gets over 40mpg. That beats the heack out of
my current 12mpg truck! Could someone advse me what this Jetta may be worth?
He thinks he'd like to get around $1,000.00 for it. And anything I should be
watching for? I assume the windows cranks and fan are minor repairs, not all
that worried about the A/C if it would be a huge expense. This would be my
first diesel vehicle. Is the 210,000 miles too high to consider? Or is it OK
on a well maintained diesel engine?
Any advice will be appreciated!

Thanks!
Tim




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On Wed, 16 May 2007 08:43:15 -0400, "TCottom" <tcottom (AT) gmail (DOT) com>
wrote:

or other similar not harsh climate. Diesels are supposed to last even
longer. I have not lived up north in years so I do not know how long
VW engines last in harsh cold winters. It seems that in Ohio the cars
rust out before people get that many miles. At least the people I grew
up with that do not drive the crazy miles I drive down here. My 2003
Jetta diesel is running fine at 155,000 miles. My 87 Toyota pickup at
260,000 miles runs fine. Well not really as I need to do valve stem
seals and an air flow meter but what do you expect after 20 years?

AC could be just some freon or worse. If it has window cranks then it
should be easy enough to fix. Power windows can be more of a
challenge. Fan switch might be a blown fuse. Wipers always running
could be a bad switch, a stuck relay or crossed wires.

You did not state where you live but $ sign suggests US or Canada.

"Jim Behning" <jimbehning (AT) doesthisblockpork (DOT) mindspring.com> wrote

mmmkay...

You're gonna die of heat stroke in that car!

Fan switch and A/C might be related (could be same problem causing both).

Why don't the windows roll up or down? Are they electric or manual? And
it's both of them that don't work?

Electrical issue there, could be the wiper stalk is broken and in the on
position all the time, maybe something is wrong with the intermittent wiper
relay, or something is stuck feeding them 12V+ all the time.

For a diesel VW that's reasonable.

*Anything* that is more or less running and in legal/registerable shape and
isn't rusted or smashed to hell is worth $1000K in my humble opinion.

Hopefully, yes.

It depends on what's wrong with it. Is it a seized compressor or a leak
or...? You'd have to find out.

A well maintained diesel should be fine. If you get a year's worth out of
the car w/o putting any money into it, it will have paid for itself by then.

On May 16, 7:43 am, "TCottom" <tcot... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:
OK... at present prices, $1000 will buy you about 300 gallons of gas
which will take you 3600 miles in reasonable safety. And if your
present vehicle is relatively trouble-free, has working windows and
working AC, the first repair will make that equation 500 gallons and
6000 miles. Then fixing the windows...

Unless all you want is a beater-car to drive until it drops, have no
"state inspection" system such as Pennsylvania that requires at least
basic safety stuff to be checked once a year, the math just doesn't
make sense for a 20 year old vehicle that has no other virtue than
decent mileage at the immediate moment.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

On 16 May 2007 17:50:31 -0700, "pfjw (AT) aol (DOT) com" <pfjw (AT) aol (DOT) com> wrote:

vs a car that would use 1,000 gallons or less. Not everyone drives
3,600 or 6,000 miles a year. But yes, buying an economy car to save
money sometimes does not work out. Yes fixing the car will cost
something.

My father in law has one car they bought new 4 years ago that has
6,000 miles on it. A toy car (Boxster), another grocery getter and an
airplane. It has three wheels so does it count as a vehicle?

Now if he sold the 12 mpg truck and bought a newer TDI then maybe you
could have even more fun justifying or discounting.

My wife says "Why don't you get a motorcycle?" Can't carry work stuff
on a motorcycle. The mileage woudl be less than the car. No time to
exercise if I was riding a motorcyle on the weekends.

On May 16, 11:40 pm, Jim Behning
<jimbehn... (AT) doesthisblockpork (DOT) mindspring.com> wrote:
Jim:

Cars, like appliances, water heaters, furnaces, boilers and many
similar large-ticekt items should be measured in life-time cost vs.
First and Operating cost in a vacuum. But you know this. So, if I
spend $1000 on a .80 Energy Factor gas-fired instant water heater vs.
$200 for one that is rated at .61 (typical tank-type), and gas is
running at (around here) at $1.09/100 c.f., that $800 difference will
buy me 33% more hot water for each dollar I spend in fuel, not to
mention that I will not pay for a standing pilot or storage. For an
average family of four, the pay-back is well within the service life
of the unit (arbitrary 10 years).

If I purchase a Brandy-New Prius vs. a Golf/Jetta TDI at about the
same initial cost, do scrupulous maintenance on both, it will be a
close-run thing as to total cost-to-operate *until* (if ever) I need
to replace the storage battery system (and dispose of the old one).

If I buy a 20 year old car and drive the average 12,000 miles per
year, and assuming NO other issues, that = 300 gallons of fuel. Make,
for round figures, operating costs at $1000 including oil changes.

The truck, OTOH, will require 1000 gallons of fuel. Add the same $100
for oil changes, comes to $3100 during the year. Assume that the Truck
is NEVER driven. So it appears to be a no-brainer. Until the State
Safety Inspection requires $1000 worth of work and/or the truck still
gets used 40% of the time because of need.

It's a balance. And one that should be analyzed carefully before
sinking into a committment. Look at it another way. Take $3000 as a
budget number. Take the value of the truck as a base-line. Take the
first-costs & repair costs to the 20YO car and add them to the base-
line. Will the base-line + 1/12th of $3000 purchase a much newer fuel-
efficient vehicle that will last a much longer time? Maybe even a
Hyundai or Kia with a 10-year, 100,000 mile warranty (remember, this
person was willing to accept a cheese-box with inoperable windows and
no AC)? That would be the better choice.

We keep two VWs, and have had several in the past including five
diesels. For a good 10 year period, they were our primary vehicles.
Now, both our vehicles are campers (Westie & Winnie) and our primary
vehicles are station-wagons (Volvo & Saab) based on our immediate
daily requirements. They get reasonably good mileage (20s mixed, 30s
highway) and are extremely safe, haul by the ton (and do), and we
would put the grand-kids in them. If past performance is any
indication, we expect to get 200K+ miles out of either/both of them
without trouble. Put another way, we will be very tired of them far
before they wear out. As they are both paid-for, replacement options
for fuel economy only would be uneconomical at present fuel prices.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

Sorry, I should have given better info. I am in Indiana, center of the
state on the western border. This guy has settled on an asking price of
$1,000.00. The windows are manual crank style, a quick look appears that
the cables on the cranks are broken. From looking at some parts places
online the window regulators appear to be an inexpensive fix.
The radiator fan works fine, it's the heater/defroster fan that doesn't
work, switch feels like it may be bad on the dash. I have to admit the
wipers running constanly have me puzzeled.
If we buy this car it'll get about 12,000 miles a year put on it between
the wife, myself, and my son. Thanks everyone for all of your advice thus
far. I'm learning a lot about these VW's and so far they sound like a fun
project car. I may try this weekend to see how low I can get him down on the
price and maybe buy it.

Thanks!
Tim

"Jim Behning" <jimbehning (AT) doesthisblockpork (DOT) mindspring.com> wrote



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On Fri, 18 May 2007 08:26:30 -0400, "TCottom" <tcottom (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:

I can't remember if it was a vw or not , but , I one time fixed either a broken
contact or switch inside the wiper motor asm.gearbox itself for the problem
of not shutting off. IIRC it was looking to turn off but couldn't find the down/off
position.