A tough one, 2 local garages and me are stumped!

Any opinions on this puzzle:
2000 new beeetle with 2.0L AEG and 75,000
1) Thermostat opens and closes,
2) No heat from blower
3) Cooling fans kick on
4) OK when idling only over heats after driving 2-3 miles
5) NO leakage from pump weep hole
6) No noticeable coolant loss

If it's the water pump, do I need the special tool T10020? to get the
timing belt tensioner off. Other than the tensioner this looks easy.
Any one done a water pump job. Am I missing anything?

On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 09:51:06 -0800, jimp wrote:


Your water pumps PLASTIC IMPELLER is slipping on the shaft and not
flowing enough coolant through the motor.

The water pump job is a nasty job, but can be done by the shade tree
mechanic.
You don't need any special tools, but clearance is tight so you will need
a good assortment of universals, extensions etc for your socket set.

The tensioner is easy. Just put a wrench over the top and tension the belt
so that the flag falls at the mark then holding it tighten the bolt so it
stays that way.


Make certain you replace the timing belt and idler along with the water
pump.
Also do the serp belt and thermostat.

Go here and search around.
There is an excellent article on how to do this, complete with pictures.

http://vwvortex.com/

Oh yea, DON'T DRIVE THE CAR IN IT'S CURRENT CONDITION!!!

waterpump!

"jimp" <jpuzan (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote

wonker wrote:
Wonker:
Thanks for the advice and for sharing teh DIY.That is a very detailed
guide, should make the job very straight forward. I appreciate your
help.
Will let you know how I make out
Jim

On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 09:55:32 -0800, jimp wrote:


Good luck and just make certain to mark the timing belt clearly (if you
use the mark and transfer method). You might want to actually line up the
timing marks as a second check. Also, make sure to mark not only a couple
of teeth on the camshaft sprocket, but then make a single mark a couple of
teeth away so that you can easily tell which side of the teeth your marks
start on. I know this sounds confusing, but you will find that when you
go to put the new marked belt back on, you might question if the tooth
started before the marks or after the marks. The second marked tooth will
confirm exactly where the belt goes. If that tooth is off, your belt is
off a tooth on the sprocket.

Also check, re-check and triple re-check your transferred marks on the new
belt.
Save the beers for later

The new belt is not easy to slide on BTW but just follow the DIY and go
slowly a little at a time and it should work fine.

I skipped the rotate by wrench part because in the beginning he says
rotate one way and in the end he uses the opposite direction so I was not
positive which direction (from which pulley) was correct.
I just jogged the key a few times to seat the belt.

Make sure to plug the power steering hoses well. Mine leaked a bit and the
fluid is expensive.
Also make sure you have some VW coolant on hand to replace what you used.
This is a good time for a flush with plain water as well.

Take digital pictures if you have a camera so you remember where
everything goes.

Oh yea, you will need new stretch bolts. They are only a couple of dollars.

I was wondering about the crank it 2 times, it confused me too, thanks
for that. I am also concerned about the alignment of teh tensioner
finger with teh Y marker it does not seem that clear to me and it must
be a critical factor, no?

I am starting it first thing Sat morning! Already got the beers on ice

Jim
wonker wrote:

On Fri, 03 Nov 2006 07:05:56 -0800, jimp wrote:

Yea. that seemed weird to me as well.
I guess if you look at the direction of rotation before you take it apart
you can crank it in that direction.
Make sure the battery is disconnected though! You don't want it to start!

I wasn't sure of the direction of rotation so I just jogged the motor with
the key before starting it.


I am also concerned about the alignment of teh tensioner
Yes that is critical!
Too tight and the water pump bearing will fail prematurely.
Too loose and as the belt wears it may jump a tooth.

When you get the idler out it becomes clear how it works.
Basically it's an eccentric that pivots the thing.
The trick is to make sure you get the tab in right place so the body stays
locked and then pivot the thing so the marker aligns with the mark on the
casting. It's a little tough to see so you might want to put a mark on it.

Then with the thing in position, you tighten the nut being careful not to
disturb the setting.

Like I said, when you get it out of the car and play with it you will see
how it works.
It's tough to describe.

Good!!!

Best of luck to ya'!

OK. I got it. Thanks. Now I can sleep tonight. Seriously. The DIY
explanation of teh finger was weak and now I understand why. You've
been a great help.
wonker wrote: