Does anybody have an opinion or recommendation for sealing the
exterior rubber weatherstripping back on to the poptop.

C

On 28 Jan 2007 18:12:42 -0800, "C" <cmo_ller (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote:

Like weatherstrip adheasive?

On Jan 28, 9:12 pm, "C" <cmo_l... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote:
We have two pop-tops, an '87 Westie and a '99 Winnie.

a) There are several grades of silicon glue/sealant, one is fiber-
reinforced and quite dense, typically sold as 'weatherstripping
adhesive" from an automotive supply, or in large caulk-style tubes as
"edge sealant" from a roofing supply. If you go to a roofing supply
(cheaper), make sure you demand SILICON BASED material. There are
several neoprene materials that are equally as good but a major PITA
to clean and even more of a major PITA to remove or replace if ever
required. Similarly for the weatherstrip adhesives. Some are silicon
based, some are not. Stick with the silicon-based materials.

b) You will note that the weatherstripping has a metal internal clamp/
spring system that gets spread out and loose.

The "proper" procedure is to remove the entire weather strip and clean
it internally and externally. Similarly the edge of the fiberglass
top. Then with a rubber mallet, tap the strip on the flat-side all
around to reset the internal clamp. Do this lightly, you do not want
to over-tighten and/or crack the clamp.

You will need a helper with this next step, two are better.

Then, lay a medium bead of silicon adhesive (black if you get the
reinforced stuff, so be careful with it) just ahead of yourself. Have
Helper #1 hold your starting point (typically a corner for location
purposes) and start pushing the strip into place, caulking ahead of
it. Maintain this all around the top. If you have helper #2, have that
person caulk, you press. Once entirely in place, with the same rubber
mallet go around again and tap the stripping into place to make sure
it is bottomed in the clamp. Clean up any excess immediately. You will
need ~2 tubes of caulk material for the entire perimeter. While you
are there, do the fixed section as well.

Allow to dry for 24 hours before driving the vehicle. Leave the top
popped so as not to distort anything.

When done (and cured... 24 hours later), saturate the entire shebang
with "dry silicon" spray.... you did clean the stripping first,
correct? this will help protect against UV and ozone as well as repel
dirt. Make a note to do the silicon each spring anyway. You will need
~12oz/400gm of dry spray for this. If you cannot find it at your
automotive supply, you will find it at your local gun shop and some
good hobby shops. Use the entire can in several layers, round and
round. Mind the overspray... I use a piece of stiff cardboard as a
shield when I spray to keep it off the paint... no worries with the
fiberglass top.

For cold weather (below 40F/5C), allow 8 hours additional for each 5/3
degrees below 40F/5C for curing.

In a pinch, standard Silicon Sealant may be used, but uniform
application, cleanliness and curing become absolutely critical as the
standard material has much less binding strength until fully cured,
and much poorer adhesive properties on contaminated or dirty
surfaces.

This should give you another 20 years.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA