![]() | |
![]() |
| | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
#11
| |||
| |||
|
|
al wrote: To avoid big flushing, it is way simpler to open the bleeder and push the piston back and close the bleeder, each time I'm working in the vincinity... Well... Joseph nailed it in one. And our four vehicles are all under the 2-year flush interval. DOT 3/4 brake fluids are hydroscopic and absorb water over time. It is the nature of the beast. Flatlanders who do little sustained or heavy braking may go many years without a problem... until they have one. One can tell by the color. Brake fluid is clear when new. Then it goes to pale yellow, and progressively darker until brown or grey as it absorbs water. Two years "like religion" will save your (and your passengers') butt in a pinch. I asked this question to get to the overall sensitivity in this group to a REALLY important but subtle maintenance issue... life-saving at the very least. We purchase our vehicles either used or very-well-used. Upon receipt, we do not take it around the block without a full-filter, and fluid change, brake, suspension and steering check and so forth. The exception to this would be automatic transmission maintenance in certain vehicles. Otherwise all of it. That becomes our base-line and the starting point for ongoing maintenance. Vehicles come and go. Life and health are fragile and tenuous enough to risk for silly stuff. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Rubber cups inside the braking system passe died well before and then big |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |