Dealer says I have 10% pad left - and I have to have the rotors replaced
as well as the pads.
I've never heard of this before: routinely replacing rotors. Is it
because I've had mostly old american cars, or is the dealer full of it?

Also: my temp light randomly goes on and off. The dealer basically
wanted to cut the sensor, saying it was flaking out and didn't matter
anyway. I thought it provided data to the ecu for controlling the
overall engine operation, making it important to have it working
properly. (You may now understand why I'm not sure I trust them on the
rotor question)

Drew Dekreon wrote:
Changing the rotors as a matter of routine is bogus. However, if the
rotors are scored or warped or otherwise damaged, replacing them is
often about as cost effective as turning them. How old are the current
rotors and how many miles do you have on them? What year / model car is
this?

There are several temperature sensors. Typically, the one for the
temperature gauge only drives the gauge. There is a separate sensor for
the ECU, and depending on year / model there might be a third for the
cold start system. Some cars also have a sensor for the coolant /level/,
could it be that this is the one your dealer says is flaky? Does your
temp gauge behave properly, or is it jumping around (well, the needle,
anyway, I guess the actual gauge isn't moving around)? If it is the
coolant level sensor that is acting up, I probably wouldn't want to pay
for any troubleshooting.

Drew Dekreon wrote:
I suggest you do replace the rotors. They are really not made to handle
two sets of pads. It's up to you, but for me the small additional cost is
worth it.

Did I say small additional cost? Sure I did, but you are at the dealer
paying for maintenance. I suggest you find a local INDEPENDENT mechanic.
It is not that the dealers are no good, but they are expensive and you don't
need to use them to keep your warrantee valid. A good independent mechanic
is just as good and either are likely to be better than any chain mechanic.

Well most dealers have good mechanics. It seems you found one that does
not. Fine a good local independent mechanic.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia's Muire duit

If the rotors are still thick, and not warped keep them... My Golf got new
rotors when I changed the first set of front pads, and the second set of
rears due to warping... but we have a Volvo that just had its front rotors
done with 160K Kms on them on the original non-warped rotors... the rears
are still FINE!.... Car is on its 4th set of pads all around. VW technology
isn't too different from Volvo technology (probably same supplier for over
2/3 of the components), do the rotors when they get thin or warped.

Cut out a temp sensor??? I'm surprised a dealer told you this... I don't
think those sensors are big money, they weren't on our 1991 Golf (few bucks
each... maybe $15 at most... maybe that was the cost for 2).... I like to
have everything work on my car... Even if it's just the gauge.
"Drew Dekreon" <drew_dekreonATchugachelectricDOTcom> wrote

"Drew Dekreon" <drew_dekreonATchugachelectricDOTcom> wrote

What model and how many miles on the car? I did brakes on my 95 Passat
VR6 at 85K and the rotors were so scored that I replaced them. They are not
an expensive part. They have a minimum thickness and sometimes cannot be
turned.

As far as cutting the temp sensor light...well, maybe you need to find a new
mechanic.

"Drew Dekreon" <drew_dekreonATchugachelectricDOTcom> wrote

What model and how many miles on the car? I did brakes on my 95 Passat
VR6 at 85K and the rotors were so scored that I replaced them. They are not
an expensive part. They have a minimum thickness and sometimes cannot be
turned.

As far as cutting the temp sensor light...well, maybe you need to find a new
mechanic.

"CSS" <nospam (AT) dslextreme (DOT) com> wrote

If the rotors are near or below the min. thickness or damaged (not likely if
you didn't wear the pads down to the rivets), yes they should be replaced.
However I've arbitrarily followed my own self-imposed guideline of changing
the rotors at every other pad change (if they're not damaged) and that has
worked fine for me. YMMV of course.

Agreed. While the ECU temp. sensor and coolant gauge/idiot light sensor are
usually separate sensors (so you don't have to worry about defeating one
that affects both), that solution is a total hack and unaceptable,
especially from a dealer. If the sensor is really going bad it's usually
not very expensive and easy to replace.