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#1
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#2
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Hi, I have a 1991 golf 1.8 carb with a confusing problem... The N/S headlamp bulb is not working. The bulb is definitely fine as it works when swapped over to the driver's side. I have tested the N/S bulb connector contacts with a multimeter and I have >12v being supplied to the bulb (identically to the O/S), so I am totally confused as to why it won't work. The only thing I can think of is somehow a lack of current being supplied to the bulb connector, but how do I test for this? Any ideas from anyone??? Your help would be MUCH appreciated! Thanks, Craig I take it to measure the 12V you took the connector off the bulb? |
#3
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Hi, I have a 1991 golf 1.8 carb with a confusing problem... The N/S headlamp bulb is not working. The bulb is definitely fine as it works when swapped over to the driver's side. I have tested the N/S bulb connector contacts with a multimeter and I have >12v being supplied to the bulb (identically to the O/S), so I am totally confused as to why it won't work. The only thing I can think of is somehow a lack of current being supplied to the bulb connector, but how do I test for this? |
#4
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Hi, I have a 1991 golf 1.8 carb with a confusing problem... The N/S headlamp bulb is not working. The bulb is definitely fine as it works when swapped over to the driver's side. I have tested the N/S bulb connector contacts with a multimeter and I have >12v being supplied to the bulb (identically to the O/S), so I am totally confused as to why it won't work. The only thing I can think of is somehow a lack of current being supplied to the bulb connector, but how do I test for this? Any ideas from anyone??? Your help would be MUCH appreciated! Thanks, Craig |
#5
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Hi, I have a 1991 golf 1.8 carb with a confusing problem... The N/S headlamp bulb is not working. The bulb is definitely fine as it works when swapped over to the driver's side. I have tested the N/S bulb connector contacts with a multimeter and I have >12v being supplied to the bulb (identically to the O/S), so I am totally confused as to why it won't work. The only thing I can think of is somehow a lack of current being supplied to the bulb connector, but how do I test for this? Any ideas from anyone??? Your help would be MUCH appreciated! Thanks, Craig |
#6
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I take it to measure the 12V you took the connector off the bulb? Try it with the bulb connected. If you have a poor connection or a burnt-out switch contact that is resistive, that 12v will drop an awful lot on-load. |
#7
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I take it to measure the 12V you took the connector off the bulb? Try it with the bulb connected. If you have a poor connection or a burnt-out switch contact that is resistive, that 12v will drop an awful lot on-load. Thanks for the quick response everyone. I have tested earth continuity on both negative pins and that is fine. I have just measured the voltage with bulb in connector, and I have 0v when the switch is on. Does this mean I just need to replace the connector or could the problem be elsewhere you think? If so, is there a way I can trace it? Thanks, Craig My money would be on the switch, or if your car has the stupis dim-dip |
#8
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My money would be on the switch, or if your car has the stupis dim-dip system, the dim-dip relay. Check the connector anyway, and the fuses and fusebox for dirt or corrosion. |
#9
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My money would be on the switch, or if your car has the stupis dim-dip system, the dim-dip relay. Check the connector anyway, and the fuses and fusebox for dirt or corrosion. Funny you should say that as I just pulled the fuse out (didn't bother checking it before seeing as I had 12v to the switch) and it is quite corroded. Swapped it with the other headlight fuse and it works! Weird thing is, swapping them round makes them both work?? I'm gonna pick up a couple of new ones anyway. Really appreciate the advice here so thanks. |
#10
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I take it to measure the 12V you took the connector off the bulb? Try it with the bulb connected. If you have a poor connection or a burnt-out switch contact that is resistive, that 12v will drop an awful lot on-load. Thanks for the quick response everyone. I have tested earth continuity on both negative pins and that is fine. I have just measured the voltage with bulb in connector, and I have 0v when the switch is on. Does this mean I just need to replace the connector or could the problem be elsewhere you think? If so, is there a way I can trace it? Thanks, Craig |
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