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#21
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Kent wrote: Interesting development in my troubleshooting of this problem over the last few days. Many of you may know that the KE-Jetronic CIS-E system on my car includes two throttle switches, one for full throttle enrichment/RPM limitation, and the other an idle switch for deceleration fuel shutoff. The idle switch also provides input to the idle stabilizer valve. Whenever the throttle valve is closed such as when decelerating or coasting, the idle switch is closed (continuity), sending a signal to the computer. If the computer receives this signal AND engine speed is above 1600 RPM, the computer cuts off fuel to the injectors by reversing current to the differential pressure regulator. Fuel flow is then restored by the computer once the engine speed drops below 1300 RPM. This function is intended to improve fuel economy. Good thinking! And thanks for posting back, reading (pending) solutions is always interesting, not to mention educational. I had the opposite problem about a year ago, my idle switch was broken and would never close. This caused idle to be way out of spec, particularly with the A/C on. From the dealer you can get the switch only with the full throttle switch and the wiring harness, priced the wrong side of $100. At the junk yard I found a number of CIS-e engines, but they all had broken idle switches. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can use the switch from a Digifant engine. (The California variety of Digifant (I?) uses switches, I believe the 49 state variety (II?) uses a potentiometer). The switches are the same as CIS-e, but they are wired differently. For Digifant the two switches are wired in parallel and the connector is 2-pin. CIS-e uses a 3-pin connector. I cut the idle switch out from my harness and soldered in a "new" one from a Digifant engine. |
#22
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Tom's VR6 wrote: snip It sounds like the fuel pump. You think that the fuel pump suddenly pumps only enough fuel to idle, and then suddenly returns to full capacity? I have once been able to drive ~50 miles home with a failed transfer fuel pump ('87 Gti 8V) The car would idle just fine, cruising at 50 mph on flat road was no problem, but going up hill or going faster, the car would sputter and loose power. |
#23
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I've replaced the transfer pump at least five times in the almost 20 years I've owned the car. |
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Some say the VDO pump offers better longevity than the Piedmont (sp?), but I'm not certain if this is true. |
#24
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"Kent" <immortala2 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote in message news:113ordvh7tfttd9 (AT) corp (DOT) supernews.com... I've replaced the transfer pump at least five times in the almost 20 years I've owned the car. What brand was your replacement? Years ago I remember reading on this group that the bad OEM one was by VDO and that the Pierburg replacement was the better one. Did you replace with VDO or Pierburg? I've owned my A2 since new and it's 14 years old and only replaced the xfer pump about 2 years ago at most with a Pierburg unit. Some say the VDO pump offers better longevity than the Piedmont (sp?), but I'm not certain if this is true. Pierburg, and I've heard it's the other way around. I know I saw 'VDO' on my original one that went bad. |
#25
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Pierburg, that's right. I don't know why I remembered it as Piedmont. I'm not sure what type's currently in the car is, but the spare I've been carrying around is a VDO. It's been quite a while since my transfer pump has failed, so I don't remember where I bought it. Recently I've been buying all my parts from Adirondack, and I know they only sell the Pierburg unit with a new filter screen. My experience has been that the folks at Adirondack know their stuff, so I'm guessing the Pierburg unit is the best bet, not VDO. Thanks for straightening me out on this Matt. |
#26
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#27
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Well was it the idle switch? |
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The engine (AKA air pump) needs fuel and ignition. So there is some problem or problems with either: Fuel Ignition Compression (which could mean exhaust also) Yes it could be a fuel pressure problem. Check the fuses and also the ground wires that might go to the cold start valve bolt. Hooking up a VOM to the Fuel Pressure Regulator to measure the current might help determine if you have problems with wiring to it. BTW I have replaced a couple of CIS-E fuel distributors that were causing problems like yours even though I tried to clean out the plunger in the center first. I was also thinking that it could be some blockage in the exhaust. I had a problem with my rear muffler restricting the flow of exhaust on my 91 Passat. I could hear the problem though and feel the power loss. If I slowed down the blockage may open back up but it would soon return. Of course another rear muffler solved that problem. You could use a vacuum gauge to help determine if this is your problem. Oh I remember another Jetta that had too much oil pressure causing the hydraulic lifters to pump up and actually cause the valves to stay open and cause a compression loss. Freaky problem that I have never seen before. 8^) - later, dave (One out of many daves) |
#28
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that sounds like the engine's "security mode" kicking in.... is the engine stock? |
#29
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You need a new coil pack. These almost never fail all at once so I would replace just the one that failed and you will be fine. |
#30
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Tom Levigne wrote: You need a new coil pack. These almost never fail all at once so I would replace just the one that failed and you will be fine. His car has only ONE coil, you idiot. This kind of idiotic misinformation reminds me of why I left this group 5 years ago. |
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