The car was driven a couple of miles. It was behaving well
but had a fairly rough idle. The car came to a stop, the accelerator
was press, the car began to move and then stalled and has not started
since.

The plugs are new and have good spark
The fuel rail has 43 psi. Pressure bleeds away overnight.
The pressure reaches 43 psi very quickly.

If i crank the engine, the plugs do not appear to be wet.
If I stick in a twist of paper towel in the spark plug hole
in place of a plug, the towel does not appear to be wet after
a 5 second crank. I can however smell gas then.
-The resistance of the VSS speed sensor is 1740 ohms instead of
the expected 200 ohms.
-There is 11 volts between CMP sensor term 3 and ground (10 V is expected)
-CMP terminal 1 to ground is 0 ohms, as desired
-when I check the power stage control signal (terminal 4 to ground)
I get 0.2 volts, where I read I should have 0.7-1.3 V (what does this mean?)

I have an 98 S70 to pull parts from.

Questions:
1. I have a diagnosis write up(named "BasicTesting-Turbo.pdf" for a
Volvo and it says to use
a breakout box( I don't have one) for a CMP sensor test, that is
"check between BOBox terminal 20 and 4 and Operate the starter
voltage should vary between 0-5 volts"
Would the terminals 20 and 4 correspond to wires labeled 20 and 4
in a Haynes Volvo 850 wiring diagram?

2. Can a ECU from a 98 s70 go in an 850? Roughly what would I have
to pay for an ECU?

3. What do I do next? I wish I had a better write-up.

Thanks for reading.
Many Thanks, Mark

Mark Barron wrote:

Do you know if you're getting a spark? That's the first thing I'd check,
if you have a spark, then the problem is probably fuel, but if you smell
gas, I'm leaning towards ignition.

Mark Barron wrote:
intake. It did not fire although the engine turned over well.
I quess I will swap CMP sensor from my 98 s70.
Thanks, Mark

James Sweet wrote:
I have spark, but even when I squirt starter fluid into the intake
directly, I can not get the engine to even cough. How can that be?
I will check again to insure that I still have spark.
Thanks you for replying.
Mark

Mark Barron wrote:

Is there compression? Timing belt didn't break did it?

James Sweet wrote:
not checked compression will do tonight.
I think I may have found the problem. I tested voltage at 3 of the five
injector connectors. The wires are green and white. When I turn on the
ignition, BOTH wires have battery voltage , +12.85. Is this right?
Does one of the wires get cyclically grounded by the ECU and thereby
cause the injector to fire? Or is this situation indicative of wires
crossed? I am not yet sure where the green and white injector wires run,
I am guessing to the ECU. Let's say for argument, that the cause of the
no start is the fact that the injectors don't fire. If I find 12.8 at
the injectors then what is left to explain the injectors not firing? --
The ECU right?
Thanks for reading.

Generally speaking, yes, one wire receives +12V and the other is pulled
low by a power transistor in the ECU. The pulse is brief though,
especially at start/idle. You really need to connect a test light across
the injector connector and crank it, if all is well the light will
flash. Sometimes you can also hear the injectors tick but the starter
can drown it out.

James Sweet wrote:
1-4. Battery was too low to get #5.
75
85
98
65
psi

James Sweet wrote:
Thanks!

That's the tool designed for the job, but it's not the only way to do
it. In a pinch you can take one of those wedge based bulbs used as side
markers on a lot of cars, bend down the wire contacts and poke them into
the injector connector. Another approach is a regular automotive test
light, the sort that looks similar to a screwdriver with a sharp tip and
a bulb in the handle. Poke some thin wires into the contact sockets on
the injector connector and connect the test light there.