The clutch on the compressor of my Mom's '85 250 is toast. The
compressor may be gone as well. I can't test the compressor because
the clutch won't engage. [I even jumpered the clutch wire directly to
the battery by poking through the insulation right behind the clutch-
and nothing- not even a click.] She had to have it towed to my house
because the clutch was not freewheeling, the AC belt started slipping
and the power steering pump (driven off the compressor) would not
turn.

Now... what to do?

I do not have to tools to pull and install the clutch, and even if I
get them, there's no guarantee that the compressor is any good (the
clutch was so hot that I think it may have toasted the front bearings
and/or seals of the compressor- just a theory).

SO... My primary thought is that I should just go to Pick 'n Pull and
get a compressor assembly that has a good clutch and swap out the
entire thing. That will make the car driveable until she gets the
system recharged. My question at this point is: The car has been
retrofitted to R134a. Are the compressors different, or will one from
a car that was still R112 OK? Anyone have a rough guesstimate on what
compressors will work (years of 240's?).

Any other tips appreciated. THANKS!

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

Randy G. wrote:

The compressor is seized. What happens is the clutch fails and starts
spinning the compressor, which must have leaked its charge and hence has
no oil in it, then that seizes and throws the belt. The car can still be
driven like that, my mom drove her '86 for a few weeks after that exact
thing happened, the steering is really only difficult in parking lots.

You'll want a whole compressor from a junkyard. The R12 and R134
compressors are the same, and most Volvos with a suitable compressor
will be R12. All '85+ 200, 700, and 900 models will have what you need.
While the system is apart, I would advise retrofitting it to much
cheaper and readily available R134. It's a perfect time to do so since
it's easy to flush all the old oil out of the compressor while you have
it out, then change all the O-rings in the fittings, inspect the rubber
hoses and replace if necessary, flush out the evaporator and condenser
with solvent and then replace the expansion valve and filter/dryer. Do
the latter part just before having it pumped down and charged because
otherwise the dryer will get contaminated with moisture. Ideally the
whole job should be done in one go to minimize contamination of the system.

James Sweet <jamesrsweet (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:
Once again, thank you, James, for taking the time to reply, and in
such a timely manner.

The car is already retrofitted for R134, and the system was working
fine and keeping the interior cool before the failure.

I have been researching since posting and awaiting a reply here, and
from what I can see, if I find a suitable compressor, the worst case
is to just put fresh ester oil in it IF it comes from a car that is
still R12. Otherwise, if I find a R134 car, it should be a relatively
easy swap. And then right over to a shop for evacuation and
recharging.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

Yep, flush the oil out of the compressor, it can't hurt even if it was
134, but most are R12. You'll still want to replace the filter/dryer,
you do that any time the system is opened, it contaminates rapidly with
moisture and if you don't change it, the desiccant pouch can burst and
then you have a real mess.

James Sweet <jamesrsweet (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:

I got the oil, but where does it go? There were what appeared as drain
plugs on both compressors, but there was no oil in them as one who has
no experience in A/C work would assume. is it just a system oil that
goes into the inlet port on the compressor?

In an case, I found an excellent compressor at the Pick 'n Pull on a
240 that was still R112, but was in excellent condition- looked like
someone had recently replaced it (spliced wires, but little to no dirt
on it and no rust on the clutch surfaces). Spins freely and easily.
The old one was so seized that neither the clutch nor the compressor
could be turned by hand.

Since my '90 needs to be updated to R134a, I am thinking about doing
the conversion on it, then renting the vac pump, manifold, and leak
tester and giving it a shot myself, and doing both evacs and recharges
at the same time.

What solvent is best to flush the system? Should it be run through the
compressor (not while under power) and blown out of that as well? I
assume that the filter/dryer and orifice is removed, then the hoses,
evaporator, and condenser are all flushed out? Are there O rings on
the evaporator (in the car, under the dash) that need to be replaced?

If anyone has links to instructions it would be appreciated. Most of
what I find is fairly generic or lacking in details.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

I paid $300.00 AU for a s\h compressor and gas up and its still running well
about to get another gas up .Every 3-4 years regassing is needed .I now have
134a after r12 and besides new proper oil for the compressor when installed
its fine .As well when refilling the correct oil put in via the filling tube
will make sure all is well .I use Norm's Auto Air in Ringwood and have done
for years with all our cars as hes an honest man which is rare .Bad luck for
you if your in The USA
....
Norm's Auto Air
5/401 Maroondah Hwy, Ringwood VIC 3134
(03) 9876 8611? Australia

"Randy G." <frcn (AT) DESPAMMOcncnet (DOT) com> wrote