The car is a 1995 2.3 Turbo SE Estate with 150K miles and seems to have
the 240mm clutch according to Euro car parts. I've ordered a Sachs
clutch kit. I am fairly sure it has the M90 gearbox.

The main reason I am changing it is that the flywheel sensor
bracket/moulding is broken. I tried to use it as a flywheel lock for a
cam belt change as I did in my 360 and it broke (the 360 bellhousing is
solid here). Hot melt glue has actually secured it for many years, but
now I want to fix it, requiring removal of the bellhousing and sort the
less than perfect clutch. It slips under extreme circumstances and the
bite point is very close to the fully out point, its also quite juddery
and creaks when the pedal is pushed in.

I did run additional boost for a while and when that started slipping
under full power I restored normal boost.

I have now read that my 940 probably has a dual mass flywheel and that
its quite complicated rather than a simple surface. To get a good
quality clutch operation is it likely this will need to be changed, is
this only available from the dealer and will they need to swop over the
ring gear?

--
Tony

Tony, having just replaced my clutch on the 945 with M90 gearbox, yours
being a Turbo model does indeed have a special clutch. However the driven
plate and pressure plate can be replaced in the same way as the non-turbo
version. However, as you say your pedal is only just engaging at it's
highest point I would suggest that you have the Slave cylinder replaced and
that the brake fluid is completely replaced at the same time. The driven
plate has no radial springs and is flat unlike the non-turbo plate which has
radial springs incorporated. Any radial movement involved as the clutch
takes up is absorbed by the springs in the special (dual) flywheel.

Eurocarparts or German Swedish & French should be capable of supplying the
correct parts but I had to go to a dealer as Eurocarparts supplied me with
incorrect parts which caused the demise of the clutch slave which jammed the
clutch in the inoperative mode.

If you need a list of parts required I can supply same if necessary. I
assume that you are UK based as I am South Wales based.

All the best, Peter.


"Tony" <Nospam (AT) nospam (DOT) com> wrote

Peter K L Milnes wrote:
I am more worried that the flywheel maybe on the way out as it is very
juddery, although it has seen a fair bit of oil, which will mainly
damage the friction material.

The slave cylinder has been bleed, and the main problems with the clutch
is at the pedal with alot of wear in the linkage, leaving with no travel
and having to really push to the floor each time to stop crunching. The
biting point is a seperate issue but you are basically saying the slave
is behaving non-linear, how could this happen? I would assume it only
needs changing if it is leaking or jammed, surely? I have a partially
disassembled master that I hope to swop out with a better linkage (the
pin hole is mostly round rather than a big slot).

I have the new clutch kit from ECP and it is as you say, I followed the
instructions on their parts list for the different chassis's. Which
according to the Sachs web site is for a different thrust bearing. Not
that that will always guarantee you have the right parts from ECP, but
they are good at sending out replacement parts. And I don't really need
the car for another week.

After learning of the dual mass thing I really wanted to get a solid
uprated clutch as I would like to put back the boost mod I had on, this
time with a switch. But it may have been the boost that damaged it in
the first place, it did vibrate at certain rev/power sometimes.

Anyway still stripping down and hope to complete at the weekend, and get
a general look around it to see what state the flywheel is in.

--
Tony

Peter K L Milnes wrote:
Actually, instructions on removing the gearbox would be helpful.

I currently have 2 problems, with enough time I sure I can solve them,
but the manual is unhelpful, describing the M47 removal.

1. The Drive shaft has a centre piece running up inside the rubber
damper that connect to the gearbox, do I need to take the bolts off the
gearbox side (the drive shaft ones where easier to get at). The drive
shaft doesn't seem to push back far enough to clear it. Or does the
drive shaft need to come completely out?

2. I can't see how to remove the gear stick or free it from the gearbox.

--
Tony