Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960 that
would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
acceleration.........

masqqqqqqq (AT) aol (DOT) com wrote:

I doubt it, but the good news is you can get pretty much the same
result by increasing tire pressure to 10% below the max pressure listed
on the sidewalls, and accelerating gently. Also, don't run the A/C while
getting up to speed or climbing hills. Those changes should be good for
about 3-4mpg more, which is the most you could expect from a chip...

masqqqqqqq (AT) aol (DOT) com wrote:

Not that I'm aware of, I've never seen a chip for an older Volvo, and
chips tend to be to improve economy.

A 960 is a really sweet ride, if you want economy, I'm sure you can find
someone to trade you a nice 940 for it, or if you can find a 740 with a
manual gearbox that will get you into the high 20s highway. 940 Turbo
has decent performance and still can manage 24 highway which is better
than the 960. All US 900 series are automatic which costs you several mpg.

Leftie wrote:
.... but don't brake or corner too hard in the wet!


and accelerating gently. Also, don't run the

Centre Parting wrote:

If you are running good (not even great, just "good") tires it
won't be a problem. If it seems a little too stiff, back off the
pressure one or two psi at a time.

Leftie wrote:
I have Goodyear F1 on the back of my 940 and had the pressure up at
+8psi for a long trip 80% loaded. After finishing the trip and going
back to normal loads I didn't reduce the pressure for a few days, the
back end does breakaway in the wet and you do lose grip, it is simple
physics, the economy goes up because the contact patch with the road is
reduced, you will end up wearing your tyres in the middle and have less
chance at avoiding unexpected obstacles. Not worth the risk IMO.

If you want economy this way then much better to fit the skinniest tyres
(correctly inflated) that will go on the rim, and you benefit from
reduced air resistance as well as rolling resistance.

Of course making sure the tyres are not under-inflated is important too.
--
Tony

Tony wrote:

It's not quite that simple. The rolling resistance can be reduced
without reducing the size of the contact patch, by making the tire
stiffer - i.e. by increasing the pressure 10%. What is the Goodyear F1?
If it's a Summer tire that could well make it slippery - I wouldn't use
Summer tires for anything except racing on dry pavement. A good
all-season, with somewhat stickier rubber, should be fine running 38psi.

Postscript: I just looked, and the F1 is indeed a Summer radial.

Leftie wrote:
With the greatest disrespect, not being a snow-tyre has nothing to do with
rain performance.
If Summer tyres weren't able to deal with rain, they'd be completely
useless - and have absolutely no market.

Wrong definition, wrong application to the situation in question.
In short, you're wrong.

that could well make it slippery - I

Centre Parting wrote:
All-Season tires have a more open tread design than Summer tires,
and this helps in rain. Summer tires aren't "useless" in rain, I just
prefer the all-around traction of All-Seasons to the mainly-dry-pavement
traction of performance Summer tires.

Leftie wrote:
Dry = slick tyres
Summer = rain tyres
All-season = snow tyres

You're reading too much into the names.