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HEATER CONTROL VALVE
Volvo automobiles Volvo automobiles. (alt.autos.volvo)
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#11
 
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Re: HEATER CONTROL VALVE -
12-30-2008
, 06:52 PM
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I don't think it ever ran dry, I noticed the coolant level was low when I topped up the windscreen washers. The heater never failed to work and I kept it toped up but if the failure had happened in the summer then i think it would have damaged the engine. The new valve is plastic and a made in Sweden pattern part but looks to be a lot stronger than the original. The car is 18 years old next week so probably past the end of it's design life but still going strong after 2 years of daily use, I've done 37,000 miles in it and it only cost me 245.00 GBP, over here in England second hand cars are very cheap. Steve H |
I've always wondered why. New cars aren't particularly cheap are they?
User cars here cost about 5x what they do there, and even still the
choice is a no-brainer for anyone with a decent understanding of basic
math. IMO the only reasons to buy brand new cars are unavailability of
used models, or a status symbol for those with so much extra money that
it doesn't matter.
#12
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| I don't think it ever ran dry, I noticed the coolant level was low when I topped up the windscreen washers. The heater never failed to work and I kept it toped up but if the failure had happened in the summer then i think it would have damaged the engine. The new valve is plastic and a made in Sweden pattern part but looks to be a lot stronger than the original. The car is 18 years old next week so probably past the end of it's design life but still going strong after 2 years of daily use, I've done 37,000 miles in it and it only cost me 245.00 GBP, over here in England second hand cars are very cheap. Steve H I've always wondered why. New cars aren't particularly cheap are they? User cars here cost about 5x what they do there, and even still the choice is a no-brainer for anyone with a decent understanding of basic math. IMO the only reasons to buy brand new cars are unavailability of used models, or a status symbol for those with so much extra money that it doesn't matter. |
for 3400 GBP, it would have cost 24K new. Most new cars are sold on
credit at 30% interest to people who must have a better car than the guy
next door. Quality older cars can be more reliable than cheaper new
cars, I'm looking for a newer Volvo oil burner (V70) to replace the 965
as I do a lot of miles and petrol is about $8 a gallon over here.
Steve H
#13
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| I don't think it ever ran dry, I noticed the coolant level was low when I topped up the windscreen washers. The heater never failed to work and I kept it toped up but if the failure had happened in the summer then i think it would have damaged the engine. The new valve is plastic and a made in Sweden pattern part but looks to be a lot stronger than the original. The car is 18 years old next week so probably past the end of it's design life but still going strong after 2 years of daily use, I've done 37,000 miles in it and it only cost me 245.00 GBP, over here in England second hand cars are very cheap. Steve H I've always wondered why. New cars aren't particularly cheap are they? User cars here cost about 5x what they do there, and even still the choice is a no-brainer for anyone with a decent understanding of basic math. IMO the only reasons to buy brand new cars are unavailability of used models, or a status symbol for those with so much extra money that it doesn't matter. |
<http://www.daveramsey.com/etc/lms/drive_free/player.cfm>
#14
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| Glad the replacement went well, just out of interest how much coolant did you loose? I often wonder how many times that a failure of this valve has actually killed the engine by unnoticed or otherwise overheating. I once got an entire 740 turbo sedan, from a scrap dealer for 50 GBP, got all sorts off it before taking it back for crushing, including the entire heating system (to upgrade my manual gle estate), the gearbox (auto, now dead, my fault, oops! So cars a manual again lol), the steering rack (still working very well, the 100A alternator (still working and bloody brilliant!), the electric seats, etc. ......, however, the only thing I actually found obviously wrong with the car, was that wretched valve! Split open, obviously, the car had bled all it's coolant. Whatever possessed them to make it out of plastic? The earlier thermostatic ones in the 84ish 240's were metal, so why not now? It's almost as if some apparently insignificant parts are designed to fail, with catastrophic results. Happy new year! Don't waste that leap second. TTFN, Ken Phillips Yeesh, converted *to* an automatic? If only you saw all the effort I've gone through to replace several perfectly working (and a couple wonky) auto boxes with manual! Fuel economy improvement of several mpg alone makes the job worthwhile, even if the manual wasn't so much nicer to drive. Hi there, |
You'll be pleased to know then, that it's a manual again, lol, I
actually did the change because I fancied a change; and the manual box
was misbehaving a bit, so I embraced an opportunity. However, the auto
box subsequently suffered the dreaded seal failure of doom, due to my
ignorance of the type and what not ever to do; lost forward drive,
etc...., but, not before the car served very well as my 'wheelchair'
after I broke my left foot. So the work was somewhat fortuitously done.
It's got the slightly wonky manual box re-installed, no syncromesh on
first, jumps out of second when 'goosed' (great fun!), but, hey it works
well apart from that.
TTFN, Ken
#15
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James Sweet wrote: Glad the replacement went well, just out of interest how much coolant did you loose? I often wonder how many times that a failure of this valve has actually killed the engine by unnoticed or otherwise overheating. I once got an entire 740 turbo sedan, from a scrap dealer for 50 GBP, got all sorts off it before taking it back for crushing, including the entire heating system (to upgrade my manual gle estate), the gearbox (auto, now dead, my fault, oops! So cars a manual again lol), the steering rack (still working very well, the 100A alternator (still working and bloody brilliant!), the electric seats, etc. ......, however, the only thing I actually found obviously wrong with the car, was that wretched valve! Split open, obviously, the car had bled all it's coolant. Whatever possessed them to make it out of plastic? The earlier thermostatic ones in the 84ish 240's were metal, so why not now? It's almost as if some apparently insignificant parts are designed to fail, with catastrophic results. Happy new year! Don't waste that leap second. TTFN, Ken Phillips Yeesh, converted *to* an automatic? If only you saw all the effort I've gone through to replace several perfectly working (and a couple wonky) auto boxes with manual! Fuel economy improvement of several mpg alone makes the job worthwhile, even if the manual wasn't so much nicer to drive. Hi there, You'll be pleased to know then, that it's a manual again, lol, I actually did the change because I fancied a change; and the manual box was misbehaving a bit, so I embraced an opportunity. However, the auto box subsequently suffered the dreaded seal failure of doom, due to my ignorance of the type and what not ever to do; lost forward drive, etc...., but, not before the car served very well as my 'wheelchair' after I broke my left foot. So the work was somewhat fortuitously done. It's got the slightly wonky manual box re-installed, no syncromesh on first, jumps out of second when 'goosed' (great fun!), but, hey it works well apart from that. TTFN, Ken |
I wonder if it's the same thing that happened to one of mine? Apparently
a snap ring broke, the end result was that the face of 1st gear became a
thrust bearing on the syncro hub and ground up the synchro, the gear,
and the hub. When I replaced it, there was a big ball of metal shavings
on the magnetic drain plug. Easy to find good used gearboxes though.
#16
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Ken Phillips wrote: James Sweet wrote: Glad the replacement went well, just out of interest how much coolant did you loose? I often wonder how many times that a failure of this valve has actually killed the engine by unnoticed or otherwise overheating. I once got an entire 740 turbo sedan, from a scrap dealer for 50 GBP, got all sorts off it before taking it back for crushing, including the entire heating system (to upgrade my manual gle estate), the gearbox (auto, now dead, my fault, oops! So cars a manual again lol), the steering rack (still working very well, the 100A alternator (still working and bloody brilliant!), the electric seats, etc. ......, however, the only thing I actually found obviously wrong with the car, was that wretched valve! Split open, obviously, the car had bled all it's coolant. Whatever possessed them to make it out of plastic? The earlier thermostatic ones in the 84ish 240's were metal, so why not now? It's almost as if some apparently insignificant parts are designed to fail, with catastrophic results. Happy new year! Don't waste that leap second. TTFN, Ken Phillips Yeesh, converted *to* an automatic? If only you saw all the effort I've gone through to replace several perfectly working (and a couple wonky) auto boxes with manual! Fuel economy improvement of several mpg alone makes the job worthwhile, even if the manual wasn't so much nicer to drive. Hi there, You'll be pleased to know then, that it's a manual again, lol, I actually did the change because I fancied a change; and the manual box was misbehaving a bit, so I embraced an opportunity. However, the auto box subsequently suffered the dreaded seal failure of doom, due to my ignorance of the type and what not ever to do; lost forward drive, etc...., but, not before the car served very well as my 'wheelchair' after I broke my left foot. So the work was somewhat fortuitously done. It's got the slightly wonky manual box re-installed, no syncromesh on first, jumps out of second when 'goosed' (great fun!), but, hey it works well apart from that. TTFN, Ken I wonder if it's the same thing that happened to one of mine? Apparently a snap ring broke, the end result was that the face of 1st gear became a thrust bearing on the syncro hub and ground up the synchro, the gear, and the hub. When I replaced it, there was a big ball of metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug. Easy to find good used gearboxes though. |
conversion) caused by a worn 'o' ring allowing bleed through of
hydraulic pressure when not in drive, thereby making the forward drive
clutch just 'kiss' the driven plates, even when in neutral or park, this
essentially eats the clutch friction material, because, it's not really
disengaged, or engaged, just wearing out. It had always given me a bit a
grief when cold, but, the straw that broke the camels' back, was all the
revving and stuff I did when converting from carb to fuel injection.
I priced up the bits from somewhere in Devon, to fix and upgrade the
auto box, the price was good at approx 80 UKP, and, the job seemed easy
enough, but, it was physically easier to just revert back to a manual
especially as my clutch foot was now in nominal working order :-0.
Bye for now.
KP
#17
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James Sweet wrote: Ken Phillips wrote: James Sweet wrote: Glad the replacement went well, just out of interest how much coolant did you loose? I often wonder how many times that a failure of this valve has actually killed the engine by unnoticed or otherwise overheating. I once got an entire 740 turbo sedan, from a scrap dealer for 50 GBP, got all sorts off it before taking it back for crushing, including the entire heating system (to upgrade my manual gle estate), the gearbox (auto, now dead, my fault, oops! So cars a manual again lol), the steering rack (still working very well, the 100A alternator (still working and bloody brilliant!), the electric seats, etc. ......, however, the only thing I actually found obviously wrong with the car, was that wretched valve! Split open, obviously, the car had bled all it's coolant. Whatever possessed them to make it out of plastic? The earlier thermostatic ones in the 84ish 240's were metal, so why not now? It's almost as if some apparently insignificant parts are designed to fail, with catastrophic results. Happy new year! Don't waste that leap second. TTFN, Ken Phillips Yeesh, converted *to* an automatic? If only you saw all the effort I've gone through to replace several perfectly working (and a couple wonky) auto boxes with manual! Fuel economy improvement of several mpg alone makes the job worthwhile, even if the manual wasn't so much nicer to drive. Hi there, You'll be pleased to know then, that it's a manual again, lol, I actually did the change because I fancied a change; and the manual box was misbehaving a bit, so I embraced an opportunity. However, the auto box subsequently suffered the dreaded seal failure of doom, due to my ignorance of the type and what not ever to do; lost forward drive, etc...., but, not before the car served very well as my 'wheelchair' after I broke my left foot. So the work was somewhat fortuitously done. It's got the slightly wonky manual box re-installed, no syncromesh on first, jumps out of second when 'goosed' (great fun!), but, hey it works well apart from that. TTFN, Ken I wonder if it's the same thing that happened to one of mine? Apparently a snap ring broke, the end result was that the face of 1st gear became a thrust bearing on the syncro hub and ground up the synchro, the gear, and the hub. When I replaced it, there was a big ball of metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug. Easy to find good used gearboxes though. No, it was the zf 4hp problem (didn't know of this when I did the conversion) caused by a worn 'o' ring allowing bleed through of hydraulic pressure when not in drive, thereby making the forward drive clutch just 'kiss' the driven plates, even when in neutral or park, this essentially eats the clutch friction material, because, it's not really disengaged, or engaged, just wearing out. It had always given me a bit a grief when cold, but, the straw that broke the camels' back, was all the revving and stuff I did when converting from carb to fuel injection. I priced up the bits from somewhere in Devon, to fix and upgrade the auto box, the price was good at approx 80 UKP, and, the job seemed easy enough, but, it was physically easier to just revert back to a manual especially as my clutch foot was now in nominal working order :-0. Bye for now. KP |
Well, that sounds credible, one more thing to dread. The symptoms are
that I have to be driving at less than 3 Mph, or to de clutch for about
5 seconds or more (by which time I'm usually at <3Mph anyway), I have
attempted double de clutching, but, I'm either doing it wrong
(probable), or it just won't work. Would the slip ring thing explain
jumping out of second? I thought that would be just a worn out detent
ball or something.
TTFN again,
KP
#18
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James Sweet wrote: Ken Phillips wrote: James Sweet wrote: Glad the replacement went well, just out of interest how much coolant did you loose? I often wonder how many times that a failure of this valve has actually killed the engine by unnoticed or otherwise overheating. I once got an entire 740 turbo sedan, from a scrap dealer for 50 GBP, got all sorts off it before taking it back for crushing, including the entire heating system (to upgrade my manual gle estate), the gearbox (auto, now dead, my fault, oops! So cars a manual again lol), the steering rack (still working very well, the 100A alternator (still working and bloody brilliant!), the electric seats, etc. ......, however, the only thing I actually found obviously wrong with the car, was that wretched valve! Split open, obviously, the car had bled all it's coolant. Whatever possessed them to make it out of plastic? The earlier thermostatic ones in the 84ish 240's were metal, so why not now? It's almost as if some apparently insignificant parts are designed to fail, with catastrophic results. Happy new year! Don't waste that leap second. TTFN, Ken Phillips Yeesh, converted *to* an automatic? If only you saw all the effort I've gone through to replace several perfectly working (and a couple wonky) auto boxes with manual! Fuel economy improvement of several mpg alone makes the job worthwhile, even if the manual wasn't so much nicer to drive. Hi there, You'll be pleased to know then, that it's a manual again, lol, I actually did the change because I fancied a change; and the manual box was misbehaving a bit, so I embraced an opportunity. However, the auto box subsequently suffered the dreaded seal failure of doom, due to my ignorance of the type and what not ever to do; lost forward drive, etc...., but, not before the car served very well as my 'wheelchair' after I broke my left foot. So the work was somewhat fortuitously done. It's got the slightly wonky manual box re-installed, no syncromesh on first, jumps out of second when 'goosed' (great fun!), but, hey it works well apart from that. TTFN, Ken I wonder if it's the same thing that happened to one of mine? Apparently a snap ring broke, the end result was that the face of 1st gear became a thrust bearing on the syncro hub and ground up the synchro, the gear, and the hub. When I replaced it, there was a big ball of metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug. Easy to find good used gearboxes though. No, it was the zf 4hp problem (didn't know of this when I did the conversion) caused by a worn 'o' ring allowing bleed through of hydraulic pressure when not in drive, thereby making the forward drive clutch just 'kiss' the driven plates, even when in neutral or park, this essentially eats the clutch friction material, because, it's not really disengaged, or engaged, just wearing out. It had always given me a bit a grief when cold, but, the straw that broke the camels' back, was all the revving and stuff I did when converting from carb to fuel injection. I priced up the bits from somewhere in Devon, to fix and upgrade the auto box, the price was good at approx 80 UKP, and, the job seemed easy enough, but, it was physically easier to just revert back to a manual especially as my clutch foot was now in nominal working order :-0. Bye for now. KP |
I meant the problem with your manual box, my own car never had an auto,
but I did break one M46 manual.
#19
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