Hye, jsut got a box!

I am going to pick it up this weekend.....


some one told me to put elec tape on the fuel injection wires....they
are hot voltage, and can ground out, and can burn up the car.

any thing else I should pay attention to?

I have to drive the car 100 miles to get it back home.....I am gonna
check fluid before I roll.

Also, the batt wasn't charging, so the buy I bought it from said, and I
am gonna bring a ohmmeter to do some and some extra batts just in
case...

I have a volt guage, to keep an eye on the batt while driving.....(I
don't trust the one in the car, it is reading zero....soe just to check
I am bringing another)

Where do I hook up the volt guage? across what terms? just pos neg on
batt? or to somewhere on the alternator....


thanks for the help

"surfbug" <acapaldi (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote

with the biodegradable wiring, and if you look at some of the smaller wires
under the hood you will probably find places the insulation is crumbling
off. The actual solution is to replace the engine harness, which is a lot
easier than it sounds. After I labeled the connectors with masking tape
(using the place they broke out of the harness as a guide) it took half a
Saturday to replace the entire harness, and it took that long only because I
work very slowly. The harness replaces all the wiring from the connector
behind the battery to the connector by the A/C receiver/drier. I paid $300
US for a new one, but somebody here will guide you to a source for a low
miles used harness that won't crumble for about a third of that.
body are probably at the end of their life unless they have been replaced.
Ditto the hoses that connect the Idle Air Control Valve (under the throttle
body) to the throttle body. If any of the turbo hoses are squishy they
should be replaced before they leave you cursing beside the road. The
symptom of a hole in one of those is that the engine runs fine until it gets
over about 2K rpm, then the turbo dumps air out the hole and makes the
mixture to rich. The engine stumbles badly until the turbo spins down, then
it's fine again. A full set of turbo hoses (less the turbo inlet hose) will
set you back about $200 US from the dealer. The turbo inlet hose is
different; it is as expensive as all the other hoses together and is not as
critical.

The voltage guage is part of the connectorized instrument panel. The easiest
thing to do is pull the panel out and check out why the meter is doing
nothing. It is trivial - IIRC it is nothing more than the two screws you can
see from the driver's seat and unplugging the connectors when you get the
panel out far enough.

thanks mike....


I gotta find out where to put my leads of the voltmenter to meter to
check if the alternator is charging th ebattery.......

I guess I could start with thte batt terms, but wehere on the
aloternator do I check?

it has a new wiring harness.....but it is a used one....hopefully it is
not a bad used that is brittle vs a good used that has been
updated.....

how do I tell the difference?


and , do the fuel injector wires run out of the engine harnes and into
the fuel injectors?


thanks


al

Michael Pardee wrote:

surfbug wrote:
Start with the battery. If you're getting proper voltage there,
everything is OK.

If you see lots of crumbling insulation or tape on the wires near the
connectors, you have a problem.

yes


--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

so,

picked up the car...cahnged the battery....the PO didn't have water in
the previous batt......




no improvement...also the pos batt terminal was really hot.....so, must
be a curretn draw, right?

WENT thru all the fuses, and pulled out the ones that were not car
engine keep running related.....

pulled the sunroof fuse....no improvement....

kept driving....



then....all of a sudden, the volt meter started reading correctly..

yahoo!

don't knwo if it ws the sunroff fuse, gotta put in a new one....I
dropped in down the console!


but is works....

now...I might get an adjustable regulator....any of you guys use those?
the volts are at about 12V would like to see 14- 14.5V

any thoughts>?

but glad to have that taken care of....

now, I have front brake problems,.....another story!

big al


Mike F wrote: