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Re: 1990 240 doesn't want to start anymore
Volvo automobiles Volvo automobiles. (alt.autos.volvo)
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Re: 1990 240 doesn't want to start anymore -
08-17-2009
, 02:04 AM
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1990 240 auto, 90,000 miles. bought the car 4 months ago and drove 3,000 miles with it. Car was starting fine except I noticed a few times I would turn the key and nothing would happen except all the lights in the instrument panel would come on as well as the headlight (just like a normal start). It seldom happened. Usually I would turn the key off and on and then it would start. But it happened like once a month. Yesterday I drove 4 hours on highway, then stop 1 1/2 hour and when I tried to start it, it was not working. I simply turned the key in the off position and then turned the key to start it and it worked. Today I drove a few miles and turned off the engine. When I started a few minutes later, at first it didn't want to start. I tried and tried, by rotating the key from the off position to the start position and then it did start. As soon as I arrived home (a few miles), I stop the car and then tried to start it again and it did not start. I waited a few hours and tried again and it didn't start. There is nothing wrong with the fuses, nor the battery. If you could make a suggestion as to where I should look, I would be extremely grateful. Thanks in advance. |
Wiggle the shifter, assuming this is an automatic, then try to start it.
#2
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On Sun, 16 Aug 2009 23:04:13 -0700, James Sweet jamesrsweet (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: Someone wrote: 1990 240 auto, 90,000 miles. bought the car 4 months ago and drove 3,000 miles with it. Car was starting fine except I noticed a few times I would turn the key and nothing would happen except all the lights in the instrument panel would come on as well as the headlight (just like a normal start). It seldom happened. Usually I would turn the key off and on and then it would start. But it happened like once a month. Yesterday I drove 4 hours on highway, then stop 1 1/2 hour and when I tried to start it, it was not working. I simply turned the key in the off position and then turned the key to start it and it worked. Today I drove a few miles and turned off the engine. When I started a few minutes later, at first it didn't want to start. I tried and tried, by rotating the key from the off position to the start position and then it did start. As soon as I arrived home (a few miles), I stop the car and then tried to start it again and it did not start. I waited a few hours and tried again and it didn't start. There is nothing wrong with the fuses, nor the battery. If you could make a suggestion as to where I should look, I would be extremely grateful. Thanks in advance. Wiggle the shifter, assuming this is an automatic, then try to start it. Yes, it is an auto, but wiggling the shifter as well moving it in all the gears and then trying does not help. Is there a solenoid or something like that? My friend who had a early 90's Audi told me that she had teh same problem and after the dealer changed tehstarter, etc. they found out it was a solenoid (or a name similar to that). Except it cost her $700 before they find out. I would appreciate all suggestions as to what to try next. |
dry engaging fork the big round thing on the side of the starter, its a
big relay and drives the gear to the engine. Standard practice is light
tapping with a hammer on the solenoid or use the handle of the hammer.
Don't hit it too hard with the metal end of the hammer, you might dent
the casing. Also watch out you don't hit or short the live feed.
--
Tony
#3
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Its not so common these days, but yes it could be a sticky solenoid or dry engaging fork the big round thing on the side of the starter, its a big relay and drives the gear to the engine. Standard practice is light tapping with a hammer on the solenoid or use the handle of the hammer. Don't hit it too hard with the metal end of the hammer, you might dent the casing. Also watch out you don't hit or short the live feed. I tried the best I could what you suggested, but it doesn't seem to work. Or I'm incompetent, lol! At the garage, should I tell them to change the solenoid first or go with the starter if this is what they wish to change? Thanks. |
results to see what you want to do. Don't just tell them to do
something.
Could be the starter solenoid, could be the ignition lockout from the
transmission, could be the ignition switch, could be a loose wire
somewhere, could be corrosion on the fuse terminals, could be the...
#4
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Its not so common these days, but yes it could be a sticky solenoid or dry engaging fork the big round thing on the side of the starter, its a big relay and drives the gear to the engine. Standard practice is light tapping with a hammer on the solenoid or use the handle of the hammer. Don't hit it too hard with the metal end of the hammer, you might dent the casing. Also watch out you don't hit or short the live feed. I tried the best I could what you suggested, but it doesn't seem to work. Or I'm incompetent, lol! At the garage, should I tell them to change the solenoid first or go with the starter if this is what they wish to change? Thanks. |
The solenoid and the starter are one piece, they can't be replaced
separately.
Starter from any 200, 700, or 900 series Volvo with a 4 cylinder engine
from 1975 to 1994 will bolt right in. There are two different styles,
but they both fit.
#5
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Its not so common these days, but yes it could be a sticky solenoid or dry engaging fork the big round thing on the side of the starter, its a big relay and drives the gear to the engine. Standard practice is light tapping with a hammer on the solenoid or use the handle of the hammer. Don't hit it too hard with the metal end of the hammer, you might dent the casing. Also watch out you don't hit or short the live feed. One more thing, I also own a 93 240. Are there parts you would suggest me to switch just to see what happens? |
eliminate other things, but it is a little easier to start with voltage
tests. Check there is power getting there first from the big cable and
from the ignition key (the small wire to the solenoid) while someone
tries to start it.
The starter is only held in normally by 2 large bolts into the
block/bell housing and a small nut for the big power feed. If you can
remove these its the hardest part. Disconnect the battery first to
avoid shorting to the chassis.
Starters are also easy to fix, you can repair almost any problem at
least temporarily, unless there is a mechanical breakage. Sticky
solenoids can be greased, worn brushes can be cleaned up and the brush
surfaces rubbed down with wet/dry, new brushes cost nothing and can be
resoldered in, bushes can be replaced with basic tools.
--
Tony
#6
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The starter is only held in normally by 2 large bolts into the block/bell housing and a small nut for the big power feed. If you can remove these its the hardest part. Disconnect the battery first to avoid shorting to the chassis. Starters are also easy to fix, you can repair almost any problem at least temporarily, unless there is a mechanical breakage. Sticky solenoids can be greased, worn brushes can be cleaned up and the brush surfaces rubbed down with wet/dry, new brushes cost nothing and can be resoldered in, bushes can be replaced with basic tools. -- Tony |
Those bolts are a real pain on automatic equipped cars, there's a lot
more room around the manual. Some long extensions and a universal joint
help, a large breaker bar is nice too, they tend to be very tight.
I've not had much luck fixing starters, one car I worked on the innards
of the solenoid had kinda fallen apart, the starter I got from the
junkyard ended up being dead, some chunks of the copper windings had
cracked and fell out, no idea how that happened. The replacement they
gave me for that lasted a couple months then it failed, finally bought a
remanufactured one from Schucks that had a lifetime warranty and it's
been fine. No idea why the string of bad luck there, starter problems in
240s are fairly rare.
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