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#1
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#2
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Hello: 93 240 DL Wagon. Indicator lamp on dash came on today suggesting a bad bulb front or rear. Fronts not likely as I just replaced them. Checked it out and it was the left rear. Bought a bulb on the way home so I'd not have to make an extra trip. No luck. Pulled the bulb socket, cleaned all contacts and then tested the original bulb (which was fine.) Next pulled the spade connectors and got out the DVOM. Voltage at the terminals is .03 volts--which is a LONG way from 12. Did continuity tests from the fuse block back and fuse is OK and all else looks good. I still suspect it's a broken or kinked wire (causing intermittent or regualr failure) along the line in spite of the successful continuity test. Is anyone here aware of this being a common issue? Any tips appreciated, as I'll not be able to drive at night until it's repaired and would rather do it myself. It's a holiday weekend, so if I drive after dark am sure to be stopped and will get an appearance ticket from the local or State Police. No fine involved, but will have to take time out to go back to court to show it has been corrected. Thanks, Doc |
#3
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doc (AT) nospam (DOT) org> wrote in message news:lt8ec11cie63etlc46ppsg9la61sp986f1 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com... Hello: 93 240 DL Wagon. Indicator lamp on dash came on today suggesting a bad bulb front or rear. Fronts not likely as I just replaced them. Checked it out and it was the left rear. Bought a bulb on the way home so I'd not have to make an extra trip. No luck. Pulled the bulb socket, cleaned all contacts and then tested the original bulb (which was fine.) Next pulled the spade connectors and got out the DVOM. Voltage at the terminals is .03 volts--which is a LONG way from 12. Did continuity tests from the fuse block back and fuse is OK and all else looks good. I still suspect it's a broken or kinked wire (causing intermittent or regualr failure) along the line in spite of the successful continuity test. Is anyone here aware of this being a common issue? Any tips appreciated, as I'll not be able to drive at night until it's repaired and would rather do it myself. It's a holiday weekend, so if I drive after dark am sure to be stopped and will get an appearance ticket from the local or State Police. No fine involved, but will have to take time out to go back to court to show it has been corrected. Thanks, Doc It's probably a cracked solder joint on one of the circuit boards in the bulb failure sensor itself, I've encountered this problem several times recently on various cars. Hello James: |
#4
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Hello James: Thanks for the tip! I went up to see a friend today who is an electronics engineer and has had many older Volvos--but nothing as recent as this. He verified what I had already found: lamp socket, lamp and all grounds were excellent. We then did a continutity test from the fuse block to the spade clip that plugs on to the lamp socket and that was also good--so no broken wire. I then came up with the idea that we run a bridge wire from the passenger side lamp terminal to the driver's side. My buddy Pete did not like that idea much but it worked and I am legal now. That said, the indicator lamp on the dash still lights up if headlamps are on, and that will have to be corrected before the next safety inspection. Anyway, my next inspection is due on May 1st 2006, so this buys me some time in warm weather. Any tip on where the circuit board is for the bulb sensor failure lamp? Is it on the back of the instrument cluster? Or is it located elsewhere? Thanks Again, Doc |
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