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Re: Replacing my 1990 240? Alternatives?
Volvo automobiles Volvo automobiles. (alt.autos.volvo)
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#1
 
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Re: Replacing my 1990 240? Alternatives? -
06-26-2009
, 10:53 PM
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A blocked flame trap and cracked follower seems to indicate lack of oil changes. |
Blocked flame trap is common even when one is diligent with oil changes.
The flame trap has to be cleaned periodically and is often overlooked,
most people don't know it's there.
#2
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A blocked flame trap and cracked follower seems to indicate lack of oil changes. Blocked flame trap is common even when one is diligent with oil changes. The flame trap has to be cleaned periodically and is often overlooked, most people don't know it's there. |
never been clogged yet (but it's been about a year, so who knows). I
think that if there is blockage on my 240 it is likely to be below this.
#3
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In article <h241me$amh$1 (AT) news (DOT) eternal-september.org>, James Sweet <jamessweet1 (AT) trashmail (DOT) net> wrote: A blocked flame trap and cracked follower seems to indicate lack of oil changes. Blocked flame trap is common even when one is diligent with oil changes. The flame trap has to be cleaned periodically and is often overlooked, most people don't know it's there. And I have removed and checked the flame trap several times, it has never been clogged yet (but it's been about a year, so who knows). I think that if there is blockage on my 240 it is likely to be below this. |
The oil separator mounted to the block below the flame trap can clog,
it's much less common than the flame trap though.
#4
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I have 2 of 1988 240 GL's and am in the UK. I have owned them for about 5 and 3 years respectively but owned only Volvo's since 1982. pounds. That's exceptional in the UK for a car of that age. |
Please remember that in the USA, there are areas where in the winter time,
a fair amount of salt is dumped on the road to deal with ice and snow.
This generally leads to very short life span for autos that have been used
in those places.
I'm trying to decide if it is worthwhile for me to repaint the 240 that I
have, or to just slowly let it rust. It will probably never be a long
lasting machine, since it was used in a road salt area before I bought
it. However, a new coat of paint may give it a few more years.
The original poster mentioned a repair shop in a particular area that uses
road salt, and in many cases autos over 20 years old are hard to maintain
with the damage the metal parts take from the added materials.
--
-Glennl
Please note this e-mail address is a pit of spam, and most e-mail sent to this address are simply lost in the vast mess.
#5
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In article <7yd1m.17$cV.14 (AT) newsfe09 (DOT) ams2>, "JDT2Q" <JDT2Q (AT) home (DOT) not> wrote: I have 2 of 1988 240 GL's and am in the UK. I have owned them for about 5 and 3 years respectively but owned only Volvo's since 1982. pounds. That's exceptional in the UK for a car of that age. Please remember that in the USA, there are areas where in the winter time, a fair amount of salt is dumped on the road to deal with ice and snow. This generally leads to very short life span for autos that have been used in those places. I'm trying to decide if it is worthwhile for me to repaint the 240 that I have, or to just slowly let it rust. It will probably never be a long lasting machine, since it was used in a road salt area before I bought it. However, a new coat of paint may give it a few more years. The original poster mentioned a repair shop in a particular area that uses road salt, and in many cases autos over 20 years old are hard to maintain with the damage the metal parts take from the added materials. |
but may have been limited to wet/cold climates.
If you do not have a galvanised one then I would generally agree that a
rusting car is far too much effort to maintain except for the most
devoted fan.
I living a wet climate in a sea front town, that gets plenty of ice and
salt on the roads during the winter. My Galvanised 1995 940 has no
problems even on a few areas of chipped or scrapped bodywork down to the
metal. The biggest problem is the sub roof sealing lip which is not
galvanised (annoyingly) and water makes it way around the inside of the
seal and drops into the slider channel which then drips into the car.
--
Tony
#6
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*Well,*the*noise*seems*to*be*at*the*top*of*the*eng ine*not*at*the** *bottom.**But*that*doesn't*necessarily*mean*a*lot, *given*that*the*engine** *is*largely*hollow*and*sits*inside*an*echo*chamber .* ** *Thanks*for*the*advice,*Tony.* * Given*that*it*is*consistent*with*revs*I*would*revi se*my*favoured*theory** to*a*broken*valve*spring.**Not*sure*how*this*would *show*up,*maybe** increased*valve*clearance*or*a*loose*valve,*but*th at*would*create** compression*problems*on*1*stoke.* * Other*things*come*to*mind,*worn*valve*guide.**Slip ped*timing*belt.*my** 360/B200K*slipped*so*badly*it*would*not*start,*and*a*v alve*was*'gently'** tapping*a*piston,*started*ok*with*no*bent*vales*af ter*fixing*the*timing.* * How*does*the*engine*run,*smooth*tickover,*lacking* power,*oil*buring?* |
missing or hesitation, mileage is normal at 24 mpg in mixed city driving. It
seems to lose about 1/2 quart of oil in 3000 miles, not sure if that's from
burning oil (no visible smoke) or from the various leaks from the valve cover
gasket and near the water pump (front seal?). It's got better acceleration than
my wife's 1993 245.
#7
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In message <4a4a2c67$0$1051$c5fe31e7 (AT) read01 (DOT) usenet4all.se>, Tony Nospam (AT) nospam (DOT) com> wrote: ?Well,?the?noise?seems?to?be?at?the?top?of?the?eng ine?not?at?the?? ?bottom.??But?that?doesn't?necessarily?mean?a?lot, ?given?that?the?en gine?? ?is?largely?hollow?and?sits?inside?an?echo?chamber .? ?? ?Thanks?for?the?advice,?Tony.? ? Given?that?it?is?consistent?with?revs?I?would?revi se?my?favoured?the ory?? to?a?broken?valve?spring.??Not?sure?how?this?would ?show?up,?maybe?? increased?valve?clearance?or?a?loose?valve,?but?th at?would?create?? compression?problems?on?1?stoke.? ? Other?things?come?to?mind,?worn?valve?guide.??Slip ped?timing?belt.?m y?? 360/B200K?slipped?so?badly?it?would?not?start,?and?a?v alve?was?'gent ly'?? tapping?a?piston,?started?ok?with?no?bent?vales?af ter?fixing?the?tim ing.? ? How?does?the?engine?run,?smooth?tickover,?lacking? power,?oil?buring? ? Other than the tapping or clacking noise, it runs like a top. Good power, no missing or hesitation, mileage is normal at 24 mpg in mixed city driving. It seems to lose about 1/2 quart of oil in 3000 miles, not sure if that's from burning oil (no visible smoke) or from the various leaks from the valve cover gasket and near the water pump (front seal?). It's got better acceleration than my wife's 1993 245. |
#8
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Please remember that in the USA, there are areas where in the winter time, a fair amount of salt is dumped on the road to deal with ice and snow. This generally leads to very short life span for autos that have been used in those places. You can't possibly dump as much salt as in the UK, they seem to start |
April at the earliest.
--
Carl Robson
Get cashback on your purchases
Topcashback http://www.TopCashBack.co.uk/skraggy_uk/ref/index.htm
Greasypalm http://www.greasypalm.co.uk/r/?l=1006553
#9
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In message <4a4a2c67$0$1051$c5fe31e7 (AT) read01 (DOT) usenet4all.se>, Tony Nospam (AT) nospam (DOT) com> wrote: Well, the noise seems to be at the top of the engine not at the bottom. But that doesn't necessarily mean a lot, given that the engine is largely hollow and sits inside an echo chamber. Thanks for the advice, Tony. Given that it is consistent with revs I would revise my favoured theory to a broken valve spring. Not sure how this would show up, maybe increased valve clearance or a loose valve, but that would create compression problems on 1 stoke. Other things come to mind, worn valve guide. Slipped timing belt. my 360/B200K slipped so badly it would not start, and a valve was 'gently' tapping a piston, started ok with no bent vales after fixing the timing. How does the engine run, smooth tickover, lacking power, oil buring? Other than the tapping or clacking noise, it runs like a top. Good power, no missing or hesitation, mileage is normal at 24 mpg in mixed city driving. It seems to lose about 1/2 quart of oil in 3000 miles, not sure if that's from burning oil (no visible smoke) or from the various leaks from the valve cover gasket and near the water pump (front seal?). It's got better acceleration than my wife's 1993 245. |
crank related by finding the frequency.
If it happens at 2000rpm, then you should expect 30 per second if it
crank related, or 15 per second if its cam related. You could try
recording it and analysing on a PC or making a your own controlled crank
frequency tapping, say by taping something to the crank pulley, and
comparing.
Other than that I think we've exhausted theory, need some hands on.
--
Tony
#10
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I have a three page list, as previously recited, of things wrong with the car- but I don't yet know what's wrong with the engine. I've had it to two mechanics, neither of whom wanted to open it up and look. One pulled and the belts and isolated it to something inside the engine and charged me $50 for his time; the other- a Volvo specialist- did what seemed to be about a two hour examination and charged me nothing for it (and generated the three page memo). |
We have a guy here in town that is not only a volvo specialist, but a
specialist in the older volvos. It sounds to me like you need someone
like that, if they can be found in your area.
--
-Glennl
Please note this e-mail address is a pit of spam, and most e-mail sent to this address are simply lost in the vast mess.
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