![]() | |
#11
| |||
| |||
|
|
Now I understand why folks have the water pump replaced when doing a timing belt change. The bottom part of the timing belt cover captures the lower flange of the water pump, so now I have to take off all the belts, get the pulley off the crankshaft to get the lower cover off. I assume I can leave the timing belt in situ without changing the position of the pulley, if possible. Here I thought I was going to have an easy time of it. Seems I have dug a deeper hole for myself. In fact the "new" water pump doesn't look quite like the original one but I will see better when I get the old pump off. The Chilton book I was consulting makes it look too easy---no mention of even removing the top timing belt cover. Arghh! Derek |
#12
| |||
| |||
|
#13
| |||
| |||
|
|
Here's what I found: As I looked closer at the bottom part of the timing belt cover I noticed it was not integral with the inner part but held in place by the bolt on my left, that covered the flange of the water pump and feeling around and using the flashlight I found a bolt holding the other side of the lower cover at the bottom. I got a 12mm wrench on it and loosened it then unscrewed it with my fingers. The bottom cover was now jiggling around loose (hopes raised again). HOWEVER: the lips of the cover are grooved and could not be pulled apart enough to slide it up and out as it is tight up against the pulley. At this point I realize the crankshaft pulley does have to come off (or be slid back 1/4" ?) to get the lower cover off, meaning that the other two belts on the alternator and AC pump had to be removed. I am leery of taking off the crankshaft pulley and misaligning its relation to the timing belt. Is the bolt or nut a left hand thread? Will have to muddle through---good thing I am retired. Derek |
#14
| |||
| |||
|
|
Derek Lawler wrote: Here's what I found: As I looked closer at the bottom part of the timing belt cover I noticed it was not integral with the inner part but held in place by the bolt on my left, that covered the flange of the water pump and feeling around and using the flashlight I found a bolt holding the other side of the lower cover at the bottom. I got a 12mm wrench on it and loosened it then unscrewed it with my fingers. The bottom cover was now jiggling around loose (hopes raised again). HOWEVER: the lips of the cover are grooved and could not be pulled apart enough to slide it up and out as it is tight up against the pulley. At this point I realize the crankshaft pulley does have to come off (or be slid back 1/4" ?) to get the lower cover off, meaning that the other two belts on the alternator and AC pump had to be removed. I am leery of taking off the crankshaft pulley and misaligning its relation to the timing belt. Is the bolt or nut a left hand thread? Will have to muddle through---good thing I am retired. Derek Well yeah, you do need to take all the belts off, but you shouldn't have to remove the timing belt. Seems like the only time I've removed the crank pully is to do the timing belt. If the car is an automatic it's tricky to lock the crank to remove the pully but what I've done is put a bit ratchet on it (22mm bolt IIRC) and wedge the ratchet handle against the water pump and bump the starter, that'll loosen it right up. The timing belt sprocket is separate and is keyed on the shaft so you won't mess that up. The lower cover circles the crankshaft so if you do in fact have to fully remove it, you have to remove the pully. I wish someone who's done this recently could confirm it though because I don't recall removing the lower cover to do the pump. |
#15
| |||
| |||
|
|
The lower cover does not have to come off to change water pump. Steps are as follows. 1) disconnect negative battery lead. 2) REmove accessory drive belts as necessary for access to water pump pulley. 3) Drain cooling system. 4) Remove radiator and fan shroud. 5) Remove fan fromthe water pump then remove water pump pulley. 6) Disconnect radiator bottom hose and heater pipe from the pump. 7) Unbolt the water pump, slide it downwards and remove it. 8) Clean away all traces of sealant and old gasket from the mating faces. 9) remove old pump top sealing ring. Refit new pump, gasket, top sealing ring and heater pipe seal. 10) Replace in reverse order to dismantling procedure. All done without removing ANY covers. |
#16
| |||
| |||
|
#17
| |||
| |||
|
|
Now comes the meticulous work of fitting the new pump in place with all its neoprene grommets, o rings etc.. This will be the fun part of the job. [ ... ] |
#18
| |||
| |||
|
|
In article <4nd73eF9rtlbU1 (AT) individual (DOT) net>, Derek Lawler <dereksl2 (AT) bellsouth (DOT) net> wrote: [ ... ] Now comes the meticulous work of fitting the new pump in place with all its neoprene grommets, o rings etc.. This will be the fun part of the job. [ ... ] Lubricate the grommets, o-rings, and anything else that needs to slide into place with silicone grease to ease assembly. Don't use any petroleum based grease, it would degrade the seals. Gary -- Gary Heston gheston (AT) hiwaay (DOT) net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/ Astronomers have developed a definition of "planet" which excludes Pluto. I'm developing a definition of "scientist" which excludes astronomers. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |